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1998 Jeep Cherokee Only Runs With Foot on the Gas

Discussion in 'Cherokee' started by Billyakaalex, Sep 1, 2020.

  1. Sep 1, 2020 at 6:56 AM
    #1
    Billyakaalex

    Billyakaalex [OP] Member

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    UPDATE: I got a new IAC which ended up not doing much. I was then just messing around with things and removed the rear breather tube (?) from the intake manifold which would allow the Cherokee to stay idling but when I put it in gear it would die out. When the breather tube was connected I would have to leave my foot on the gas for it to idle. Progress? Lol

    Sorry that this is so long, I figured I’d just say everything that I’ve done and the outcome. So in short I recently bought a 1998 Cherokee with around 170,000 miles that will only run if I leave my foot on the gas. I replaced the crankshaft sensor, cleaned out the throttle body and IAC, cleaned up some grounds, replaced spark plugs and replaced a PCV valve(?) along with the hose.


    For those of you who would like more information. I bought the Cherokee non-running, it would run for about two seconds and then just shut off but if I left my foot on the gas it would run but die when I put it in gear. Also while running it just sounded really bad and not healthy, sometimes I would let it idle with my foot on the gas and it would pop and then I would see white smoke coming out of the exhaust. The first thing I did was replace the crankshaft position sensor as the check engine light was on due to a faulty one. This did not help much if at all. I read that if the throttle body is clogged up it will cause a similar issue so I decided to clean it along with the IAC. This did make it run a lot smoother and it started quicker but it still sounded really bad. I then cleaned up some ground wires, although probably not all of them. It sounded like the previous owner had messed with the timing so I figured I’d check to make sure that the plug wires were going to the correct plugs, they weren’t, 3 and 5 were switched which was causing it to run very rough. Once I did this the engine was a lot happier and was much quieter, I then decided to check out the condition of the spark plugs, it looked to be running lean but also it wasn’t burning off oil on the plug. I replaced them and it turns out they weren’t even the correct spark plugs.... Correcting people’s mistakes made it run a lot better and just sound healthy. I was able to shift it into gear while leaving my foot on the gas and drive about 6 feet before it died out. I decided that I would attempt to mess with the timing, as I was removing the valve cover I realized that the PCV valve(?) on the back of the cover had been broken off and someone tried to JB weld a fitting onto it but it was very very loose. I replaced the valve along with the hose which helped a lot. After doing this I was able to drive it around the block (about half a mile) as long as I kept my foot on the gas, when I let off the Cherokee would die out. After feeling very productive I decided to take a break, I came back later to try to drive it again just to see if I would have the same results. It started out well and about 1/8 mile in it just died so I went to start it and nothing at all, waited a minute and it started up fine. Drove a few hundred feet and same thing, I was able to drive it home though. Also I should add that on the final homestretch I did let off the gas to see what would happen, it was still running fine for a few seconds but I could tell it was having a hard time. Once I got it home I charged the battery and went back to drive it a few hours later. I started it up and went to put it in gear and it just died out, tried it again and same thing. Then I just let it idle for 10 seconds, it then backfired and was wanting to die out so I just shut it off and quit for the day. I have a list of things that could potentially giving me problems but I just figured that I would make a post to ask for some more input. Anything helps, thank you.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2020
  2. Sep 1, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    #2
    Jim Beam

    Jim Beam Well-Known Member

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    I would start with checking for a vacuum leak and compression test. Knowing when you last replaced the crank sensor is a good thing.
     
  3. Sep 1, 2020 at 6:08 PM
    #3
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    Only because it was not mentioned...fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter?
     
  4. Sep 1, 2020 at 7:35 PM
    #4
    Billyakaalex

    Billyakaalex [OP] Member

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    okay I will do that, thank you!
     
  5. Sep 1, 2020 at 7:37 PM
    #5
    Billyakaalex

    Billyakaalex [OP] Member

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    I did check to see how much PSI I was getting at the fuel rail which was 50. The air filter looks pretty good still and I haven’t checked on the fuel filter.
     
  6. Sep 3, 2020 at 1:31 PM
    #6
    Billyakaalex

    Billyakaalex [OP] Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
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    Vehicle:
    2x 1998 Cherokee, 1998 Wrangler
    UPDATE: I got a new IAC which ended up not doing much. I was then just messing around with things and removed the rear breather tube (?) from the intake manifold which would allow the Cherokee to stay idling but when I put it in gear it would die out. When the breather tube was connected I would have to leave my foot on the gas for it to idle. Progress? Lol
     
  7. Sep 3, 2020 at 3:37 PM
    #7
    Jim Beam

    Jim Beam Well-Known Member

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    1986 CJ7
    Fuel Injection, Dana 44s, T18, 4.10s w/lockers
    How is it when you take off with a cold engine? As the idle speed should be increased until it warms up. The breather tube should not really be a factor here.
     
  8. Sep 4, 2020 at 6:33 PM
    #8
    Billyakaalex

    Billyakaalex [OP] Member

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    I just checked the RPM's with my OBD2 scanner as it doesn't have a tachometer. It's idling around 2000RPM and it seems to be running rich.
     
    Jeepbeater likes this.
  9. Sep 4, 2020 at 8:13 PM
    #9
    Jim Beam

    Jim Beam Well-Known Member

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    That would be pretty much normal, as a cold engine needs to have a high idle and run rich. So does the idle just seem be be too low when the engine warms up? A guess would be that the pedal linkage stop is worn an needs adjusting.
     
  10. Feb 1, 2021 at 5:36 PM
    #10
    cpttuna

    cpttuna Well-Known Member

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    ss exhaust-viper coil
    replace IAC again???????????????????????????????????????????????????? With the $75 one?
     
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