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My $120 CJ7 build

Discussion in 'Jeep CJ Builds' started by daddyusmaximus, Aug 25, 2017.

  1. May 30, 2018 at 2:41 PM
    #61
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2016
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    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    Decided to tinker today. I'm planing to run the Dana 300 T-case because everybody says it's the better case. The Jeep I got the drivetrain out of was running the Dana 20. It was working, but not well. It was a bear to shift with. I got to measuring the TF 999 in the CJ7 and the TF 727 that was in the CJ5 behind the Mopar 360. Same family of transmission from what I can tell only the 727 is a much stronger unit. The bolt pattern at the tail housing is the same and I got to wondering if the adapter for the Dana 300 would fit on the 727. Maybe I'd need a new output shaft, but it looks like it will bolt up. No such luck finding out. I got the adapter and T-case off the 999, but can't get the adaptor off the stupid 727... Bolts are out, but that baby ain't coming apart.
    [​IMG]
    Also curious as to what this cogged wheel is on the Dana 300. Anyone know? Looks like some kind of brake to lock up the unit.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    They are getting rebuilt anyway before they go back in. I know the 727 runs, I was driving the CJ5 for a couple months before I tore it down. The Dana 300 is a crap shoot as it had been sitting for years. I was kinda hoping to know if this was going to work or if I was gonna have to spring for a new adapter.
     
    OFFGRID, TomTwo, JKBob 25 and 2 others like this.
  2. May 31, 2018 at 6:36 AM
    #62
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    1,872
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    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Any chance that is a long shaft that runs through the existing adapter coming from the tranny, and maybe you have to take the gear and anything else I can't see off and then slide the adapter off the shaft?
     
  3. May 31, 2018 at 10:45 AM
    #63
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,872
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Here is a pic of a 727 4x4 tranny without the adapter.

    Screenshot_2018-05-31-12-40-58.jpg
     
  4. May 31, 2018 at 3:08 PM
    #64
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2016
    Member:
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    Messages:
    95
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    Looks like what offgrid described. I never messed with transmissions before. I just don't have any money for new parts so I was wanting to do something on it. Figured I could count splines, and see if my plan for the future would work... I'd love to do a Chevy 30 swap with a 700R4. There is way more aftermarket support for a small black Chevy and the 700R4 would give me overdrive, but I have the running 360 and 727... Maybe I should sell them and do the Chevy thing anyway.
     
    JKBob 25 and chris4x4 like this.
  5. Jun 1, 2018 at 7:32 AM
    #65
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,872
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    There is a company on the east coast that shipped me a rebuilt 4WD 700r4 for $950 including shipping 2 years ago. Ill try to find the receipt for the company name.
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  6. Aug 29, 2018 at 8:05 PM
    #66
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2016
    Member:
    #446
    Messages:
    95
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    My wife is a teacher's aid. No school in the summer, so we're down a paycheck. That coupled with my not-so-great VA disability income means no parts buying over the summer. Also, I don't get along with 90 degree weather, and have been doing some pretty intense physical therapy on my bad shoulder. MRI next week, so I'll get to see what kind of damage is in there now. Been years since the last operation. Anyway... after taking the summer off working on the Jeep, I'm back at it... sort of.
    Now for a guy still in the bare frame stage, this is gonna sound strange, but my first big spend was for a new back bumper. When I was mocking up the new springs, I found the Rubicon Express YJ springs to be a bit longer. The rear shackles ended up being angled too far back, and I was gonna have to move the rear shackle mount back a couple inches or there wouldn't be enough room for movement once there was weight on it. After deliberating on weather to build or buy, I found one online that looked very strong, and decided to go for it, knowing I'd probably have to modify how it attached to the frame. I ordered the LOD Expedition series bumper and tire carrier, and the optional frame tie ins.
    [​IMG]
    Now I had to figure out a way to mount the bumper so that it is strong enough that I can move the rear shackle back and have it resting on the bumper, as a frame extension. The bumpers optional frame tie ins, are only for the outside of the frame. There are only two. They do not sandwich the frame. for the bolts on the inside of the frame, you get only backing plates.
    [​IMG]
    First off, I can't imagine anyone NOT getting the frame tie ins. Too many videos out there of people trying to get unstuck, and ripping the rear bumper off a vehicle. Second, I need this strong enough to be a frame extension, as the shackle will be moved back one hole. I remembered taking some brackets off my old Super Duty when I first got it years ago. (it had a 5th wheel hitch I didn't need) I dug into my scrap pile and started making the pieces to a second pair of frame tie ins, using these, and the backing plates LOD sent. These will go on the inside, and sandwich the frame. I'll have to get longer bolts. LOD also sent grade 5 bolts. I'll get grade 8.
    [​IMG]
    There is a tab on the bottom of the bumper that had a hole that corresponds with the rear shackle mount hole. (that will now be the front shackle mount hole) This will work out perfectly, but will still need further reinforcement under it. I'll cut the original rear bumper, install a sleeve, (kinda like a trailer hitch in a reciever) and it will go inside the frame.The bolts will go through the frame tie ins, the frame, and the sleeve, that will be welded to the rear of the LOD bumper under the tab, so it will support the rear shackle mount.
    [​IMG]
    Should be plenty strong.
    Sucky thing is now that we're back to a two income family... the timing chain broke in my daily driver (2003 Marauder) pretty sure I bent a bunch of valves too. I'm looking at a big repair bill. probably a total rebuild. I have to do the things that don't require a lot of cash outlay. I can do the frame painting and the rest of the bumper mounting without much additional cost in the mean time. I'll be able to get the springs mounted, flip her back over, and get the axles back under her without a lot of cost. Maybe I can start working on the tub in my no money spare time till after I get the car up and running again.
     
    OFFGRID, chris4x4 and aggrex like this.
  7. Sep 13, 2018 at 7:41 PM
    #67
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2016
    Member:
    #446
    Messages:
    95
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    Crap... If it isn't one thing, it's another. My daily driver (2003 Mercury Marauder) is down. Timing chain jumped, and she bent some valves. 160K miles on her. Probably should have replaced it as a preventive measure, but she was running fine... So that put a $4,000 dent in the Jeep budget.
    Anyway, I have been able to spend a little time working out the kinks in the rear bumper install, and how far back to move the rear spring shackle eyes. Pretty sure I won't have to flip them around like I had them in the previous post. Moving them one hole back should do the trick. I test fitted the springs, and the angle of the shackles look like they should be OK. I guess I'll find out when she's on the ground.
    Gave it the first coat of desert sand, so you an get the idea of the "Army Jeep" look she'll have.
    [​IMG]
    Here you see the frame tie in brackets that I got (paid extra) with the bumper. Still think it's cheesy they only sent two, so you can't sandwich the frame.
    [​IMG]
    Here you see the finished frame tie ins I did for the inside. NOW I can sandwich the frame. I also replace the grade 5 hardware they sent, with grade 8. Notice how now that I moved the shackle eye back, they sit on top of the original rear crossmember. This leaves them up a bit, and not directly sitting on the frame, so I'll have to insert a piece of steel to fill the gap right under the eye to keep it from flexing under load. Kinda screwed up on those home made tie ins. My side supports were so close I didn't leave enough room for a socket. Had to hold the nut with an open end wrench, and tighten the bolt from the other side. Very hard to get to.
    [​IMG]
    Overall, I think it should be strong enough to do the job...
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Sep 14, 2018 at 7:11 PM
    #68
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    2016 JK Wrangler Sport
    2" Superlift kit. 315/ 70/17.
    Very nice work....
     
  9. Sep 14, 2018 at 7:38 PM
    #69
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    95
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    I'm so excited. I'll have her sitting on the axles in a week or two unless something else goes wrong. They will still need to be rebuilt, but I'll know how she sits, and can start planning other stuff like running brake lines, maybe set the fuel tank. I'm gonna do the Ford truck shock tower thing so I can run longer shocks.

    Maybe figure out how the hell I'm gonna make the CJ sway bar work with the Dodge truck front Dana 44 axle. I'd rather not have to go buy a custom sway bar. Hopefully just fab up custom mounts on the truck axle that link up to the sway bar. It's quite a bit wider, so there's plenty of room to play. Anybody know if there is quick disconnects for stock CJ sway bars?
     
  10. Sep 15, 2018 at 12:39 PM
    #70
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    95
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    Put the front springs on today. I was gonna paint the front of the frame, but got overheated. maybe later in the evening or tomorrow. A little concerned about the angle of the shackles. They are over the 90* mark with no weight on them at all. The Rubicon express YJ SOA springs are suppose to ride nice, but are a bit longer. I can't move either of the shackle mounts without a lot of custom fab work.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    The Dave's Customs Unlimited kit mounts the rear right in front of the body mount, so there's no moving it back. Wouldn't want to go back anyway. The front uses factory holes, so moving it forward would mean paying somebody to cut and weld on what I paid them to engineer. I already had to space them out for the Dodge truck axles. I'm thinking that there should be enough room for the spring to compress without having it bang on the frame. I'll have to make my own bump stops anyway, as the factory ones won't match up with the Dodge Dana 44.
    [​IMG]
    Side note: I had ordered two new sets of greasable shackles and now somehow I don't have enough bolts to mount both the front and rear springs. They give you the greasable bolts for the shackles, but regular bolts for the pivot end of the springs. Maybe I'm being OCD, but I want greasable bolts everywhere there is a bushing... so I'm ordering another kit.
     
  11. Sep 19, 2018 at 7:16 PM
    #71
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    2" Superlift kit. 315/ 70/17.
    Wow....looks really nice dude. Yeah....Look forward to seein it sittin on axles too. Awesome work so far @daddyusmaximus . :thumbsup:
     
    daddyusmaximus [OP] likes this.
  12. Sep 22, 2018 at 10:02 AM
    #72
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2016
    Member:
    #446
    Messages:
    95
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    Did a bit of wire brushing and painting on the frame today. Managed to finish the front half back to the skid plate. Shoulders on fire...
    Here's what I started with...
    [​IMG]
    Had to make a trip to the hardware store for a new brush after a while...
    [​IMG]
    Now half of the frame is black.
    [​IMG]
    I couldn't find POR 15 in any of the stores around here, but I found this stuff. The question is, will Chassis Saver save my chassis? Time will tell.
    [​IMG]
    Gotta take the skid plate off to progress rearward. That, is for another day... I need a shower, nap, the wife has plans for dinner with friends, and I have to get back to the VFW to do a Treasure Hunt drawing.
    [​IMG]
     
    OFFGRID likes this.
  13. Sep 22, 2018 at 10:09 AM
    #73
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    DE
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    Backcountry '16
    Tuffy>AEV>TTO>JW>STech>EVOcage>MagnaFlow>SpiderTrax>RockHard>TF>SpringTail>67design>Bolt>GPCA>Curt>
    Wow that's a lot of manual wire brushing. HF has wire brush attachments for a drill that can reduce that manual labor. Be sure to wear eye+respirator.
     
    JKBob 25 and daddyusmaximus [OP] like this.
  14. Sep 22, 2018 at 10:38 AM
    #74
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Messages:
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    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    I did that some too. I tried to save the shoulders by using the drill, but the brush catches on edges, and with my injuries, and weak grip it's hard to hold on to. Same reason I break a lot of drill bits...
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  15. Sep 26, 2018 at 6:48 PM
    #75
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    2016 JK Wrangler Sport
    2" Superlift kit. 315/ 70/17.
  16. Sep 26, 2018 at 9:06 PM
    #76
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,872
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I really like the shackle angle. 90* makes for a stiffer ride. Now you'll have a little more bounce. The whole build is looking good.
     
  17. Oct 8, 2018 at 3:31 PM
    #77
    daddyusmaximus

    daddyusmaximus [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2016
    Member:
    #446
    Messages:
    95
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    Male
    Vehicle:
    '79 CJ5
    360, D44 front, Chrysler 8.25 rear, 4 wheel discs, rear Detroit locker
    Had to get the skidplate off to finish the frame scraping and painting. Guess what? Yup, broke another 38 year old bolt. Is there anything more infuriating than drilling out damn broken bolts? Can I get an Amen?
    [​IMG]
    However, I finally got the rest of the frame Chassis Saver black. (well, at least the bottom and sides) I'll let her dry for a few days, then hit her with the rattle can desert sand. Soon after, I'll flip her over, get on her wheels, and do the top of the frame.
    [​IMG]
     
    chris4x4, JKBob 25 and aggrex like this.
  18. Oct 8, 2018 at 5:04 PM
    #78
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    2016 JK Wrangler Sport
    2" Superlift kit. 315/ 70/17.
  19. Oct 9, 2018 at 9:12 AM
    #79
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,872
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Amen. I gave up getting angry and have started taking it as par for the course.
     
    JKBob 25 and chris4x4 like this.
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