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My Jeep keeps shutting down after about 15 miles.

Discussion in 'Wrangler YJ (1986-1995)' started by Tree Top Flyer, Dec 26, 2017.

  1. Dec 26, 2017 at 6:26 PM
    #1
    Tree Top Flyer

    Tree Top Flyer [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2017
    Member:
    #2061
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dale
    Vehicle:
    1989 Jeep Wrangler (base)
    REbuilt ATK 4.2L engne; removed Peugeot Trans with an AX-15; Clifford Perfoemance intake mqnifold/Motorcraft 2150 carb; Clifford headerHEI Distributor; Rough Country 4 inch lift; B.F. Goodrich 33 inch tires with Mickey Thompson wheels; 456 gears front and rear/with posi; Nutter bypass; 9,000 lb. Smittybilt winch. Smitty bilt security center console and glove box. C/B, and radi.
    I recently completed a restoration on a 1989 Wrangler yj, New (rebuit) ATK. engine; Clifford Performance intake and Weber Carb, Clifford Headers; HEI distributor. I took it out and only got about 15 miles and it suddenly stopped. I waited 15 minutes, and was able to start it again. When I got home, thinking it was a vapor lock, I rerouted the fuel line away from any heat source. After completion, I took it out again, and the same thing happened. I wound up going through the entire fuel system, cleaning the tank, installing a new sending unit, lines, electric fuel pump and fuel filter. I added an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, re-timed the engine and adjusted the carburetor. Took it out a gain, and the same thing happened. Quit after only a few miles. Today, I started it up, and checked timing yet again, but noticed that once the engine warmed up, the distributor got very hot. So hot you couldn't hold your hand on it.
    I am starting to think the coils are overheating and shutting the engine down!! ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
     
  2. Dec 26, 2017 at 6:34 PM
    #2
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Sounds like a bad engine sensor. O2, temp, crank, etc.
     
  3. Dec 26, 2017 at 6:39 PM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    welcome! When it dies, does the fuel pump make sound? Does it sound like its still keeping the system pressurized?
     
  4. Dec 26, 2017 at 10:55 PM
    #4
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    1,872
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I just realized you said you had a weber carb, and fuel injection wasn't around till 91 I think. So I believe the only sensor your likely to have hooked up to the ECM is the Temp sensor and possibly the Tac. Are you still running an ECM, have you done a nutter bypass, or have you completely removed the ECM. Do you still have an Ignition control module? It should have been removed when you installed the HEI. How old is your HEI? What kind of HEI are you running? It doesn't sound like you are having a fuel issue to me. It sounds electronic. Are you running a mechanical fuel pump on the side of the motor or do you have an electric fuel pump? Just trying to figure out what changes have been made in order to better understand your problem.
     
    aggrex likes this.
  5. Dec 27, 2017 at 6:43 PM
    #5
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    Bob
    Jersey Shore, NJ
    Vehicle:
    2016 JK Wrangler Sport
    2" Superlift kit. 315/ 70/17.
    Welcome to the forum Tree Top Flyer. Looks like your in good hands with OFFGRID.
     
    chris4x4 likes this.
  6. Dec 30, 2017 at 5:40 PM
    #6
    Tree Top Flyer

    Tree Top Flyer [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2017
    Member:
    #2061
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dale
    Vehicle:
    1989 Jeep Wrangler (base)
    REbuilt ATK 4.2L engne; removed Peugeot Trans with an AX-15; Clifford Perfoemance intake mqnifold/Motorcraft 2150 carb; Clifford headerHEI Distributor; Rough Country 4 inch lift; B.F. Goodrich 33 inch tires with Mickey Thompson wheels; 456 gears front and rear/with posi; Nutter bypass; 9,000 lb. Smittybilt winch. Smitty bilt security center console and glove box. C/B, and radi.
    I did the "Nutter bypass. There is no O2 sensor, etc. I went with Clifford Performance inake, carb and headers, for more performance. I pulled and cleaned the fuel tank, ran new fuel lines, new fuel tank sending unit, new electric fuel pump, inline fuel filter, pressure regulator. I rerouted the fuel lines from over the headers, and swapped the Weber for a Motorcraf 2150. There is nothing else I can think of to do with the fuel system. Yesterday, I installed another new HSI distributor, because the last one was over heating. I am thinking the problem was that distributor. The base was getting so hot it was shutting down the coil. I don't know why it was getting so hot, but you couldn't touch it. It that was the problem, then I have to find out what was causing it to get so hot. I am wondering if the power source is putting out too much voltave, and needs an in-line resister????

    Please, any thoughts?
     
  7. Dec 30, 2017 at 5:45 PM
    #7
    Tree Top Flyer

    Tree Top Flyer [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2017
    Member:
    #2061
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dale
    Vehicle:
    1989 Jeep Wrangler (base)
    REbuilt ATK 4.2L engne; removed Peugeot Trans with an AX-15; Clifford Perfoemance intake mqnifold/Motorcraft 2150 carb; Clifford headerHEI Distributor; Rough Country 4 inch lift; B.F. Goodrich 33 inch tires with Mickey Thompson wheels; 456 gears front and rear/with posi; Nutter bypass; 9,000 lb. Smittybilt winch. Smitty bilt security center console and glove box. C/B, and radi.
    FYI, I did remove the ECM The distributor is a "Summit Blueprinted HSI:. Ignition Control Module is also removed.
     
  8. Dec 30, 2017 at 6:06 PM
    #8
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,872
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Where are you pulling the power for the distributor. I believe it should be switched 12 volt. I pulled mine from the power that fed the ignition control module. Could be that you just had a bad distributor and are no longer having any problems. (Fingers crossed)
     
  9. Feb 10, 2018 at 9:22 AM
    #9
    Cj5_fan

    Cj5_fan Member

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    Jeff
    Sedona, AZ
    Vehicle:
    1980 CJ5
    304 V8 Renegade with 4" lift, LSD front and rear, 3.73 pushing 33x12.5 duratracs.
    Just because you're rerouted the fuel line does not mean you have fully solved the issues that could be causing a vapor lock. You must remember that a vapor lock is caused by the gasoline vaporizing and creating a low vacuum situation in your fuel line. Where that typically happens the most is not in the fuel line as it's routing through the engine compartment, but at the inlet of the fuel pump. Once it vaporizes there due to the low pressure vacuum caused by the sucking of the pump, It loses Prime and can no longer suck more gas and that's causing a stall in the motor. Depending on how bad things get and how hot your environment is you may mitigate this by wrapping the lines at the fuel pump and the pump itself if necessary or if things get really bad bypass the mechanical pump and switch to an electric pump that can be routed along the frame and that will keep the fuel system pressurized at all times fully eliminating vapor lock.
     
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