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1975 cj5 gauges

Discussion in 'General Jeep Discussion' started by 75cj5, Apr 3, 2017.

  1. Apr 3, 2017 at 8:15 AM
    #1
    75cj5

    75cj5 [OP] Member

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    I have a 75 cj5 that some of the gauges don't work on I.e. Fuel, temp, the speedometer works but floats a lot. I was wondering what the problem could be
     
  2. Apr 3, 2017 at 8:27 AM
    #2
    75cj5

    75cj5 [OP] Member

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    Also my voltage regulator has tar looking stuff leaking from it could this be part of the issue? Which I just noticed this issue but the gauges have been out for a while now.
     
  3. Apr 3, 2017 at 8:44 AM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    Bump for ya. I don't know much about gauges, but want to see what the outcome is.
     
  4. Apr 3, 2017 at 11:23 AM
    #4
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Get you a Jeep Technical Service Manual, Year specific. I found this one on Ebay. It is for the 79 year, but there probably isn't much difference if at all. This one is only $60 which is very cheap. I paid $90 for my CJ and $115 for my YJ. They tell you how to trouble shoot all gauge and electrical problems and everything else you need to know. Well worth it, and a must have for DIYers.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Jeep-S...ash=item21239a3103:g:0MUAAOSwdGFY3WWd&vxp=mtr

    That being said, most gauge issues are poor or corroded grounds. The Speedometer is probably going out, but you might try a new cable first. It can bounce forever, but eventually it will not register anymore. you will probably notice that the faster you go the tighter the bounce gets.
     
  5. Apr 3, 2017 at 11:47 AM
    #5
    75cj5

    75cj5 [OP] Member

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    I have noticed that the faster I go the tighter it gets, but do I need to change the voltage regulator if it's leaking that stuff
     
  6. Apr 3, 2017 at 11:56 AM
    #6
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Do you have a picture of the voltage regulator and the stuff.
     
  7. Apr 3, 2017 at 12:28 PM
    #7
    75cj5

    75cj5 [OP] Member

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    I can get one this evening
     
  8. Apr 3, 2017 at 6:20 PM
    #8
    75cj5

    75cj5 [OP] Member

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  9. Apr 3, 2017 at 6:21 PM
    #9
    75cj5

    75cj5 [OP] Member

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    That's the box and the dark spot under it is what's dropping out of it
     
  10. Apr 3, 2017 at 10:06 PM
    #10
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I believe that is the ignition module. That is an anti vibration gel also protects it from the elements. If you looked at the backside all you would see is gel. I've never seen one melt like that. They can get very hot to touch. It looks very old. Jeep won't run without it. If your running it's still good. I took mine out and run HEI single wire distributor. Use the switched hot that feeds the ignition module to feed the new HEI distributor if you go that route.
     
  11. Apr 4, 2017 at 7:19 AM
    #11
    75cj5

    75cj5 [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the help
     
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