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1995 5 speed trans starting to pop out of 3rd gear,

Discussion in 'Wrangler YJ (1986-1995)' started by TheronHunt, Aug 15, 2017.

  1. Aug 15, 2017 at 12:29 PM
    #1
    TheronHunt

    TheronHunt [OP] Member

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    Theron
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    I was hoping to find news good or bad. My Jeep is not wanting to go into 3rd gear. Is there an adjustment I can make or is it something I will need to repair or replace? Appreciated!
     
  2. Aug 15, 2017 at 2:16 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    I don't know much About transmission issues, but has the fluid been changed? I always start with the less expensive stuff first.
     
    Bob and JKBob 25 like this.
  3. Aug 15, 2017 at 5:32 PM
    #3
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Just a guess, but it sounds like you need new syncronizers. At this point you should just rebuild it. You can save roughly $500 if you pull it yourself and take it to the shop to have them rebuild it.
     
  4. Aug 15, 2017 at 5:54 PM
    #4
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    Welcome! As mentioned by OFFGRID, if you have the time and basic wrenching to remove the trans it could be a good DIY task. Reinstallation would be similar except for some adjustments which could be figured out or paid for.
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  5. Aug 15, 2017 at 6:27 PM
    #5
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    I'm not much on tranny either. But always looking to learn. Keep us posted.
     
    TheronHunt [OP] likes this.
  6. Aug 21, 2017 at 4:22 AM
    #6
    TheronHunt

    TheronHunt [OP] Member

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    Hello and thank you for your help and direction. I wanted to say I changed the fluid which contained some brass and possible metal but not a significant amount of large pieces but the drain plug was full of shavings. I did the overall clean and changed the fluid in the transfer case which was not bad in the way of metal.
    So my next question is because it is only 3rd gear and all other aspects are actually great. I ran it for 60 miles since the fluid changes and it did not get any better. Is it possible to just repair the syncro gear on 3rd by myself or is this a real ignorant thought? I also wonder what kind of cost should I expect taking it in for rebuild with the minimal damage? Is there some updates that anyone would suggest (the machine gets along great but I keep it to 29" to 31" 7.5" in winter ) but I sure don't want this issue in another 130,000 miles.
    This is a 5 speed with the 4.0 rail port injection. 137,000 miles not much rust other than tube steps (smittybuilt) no drain holes so it rusts from inside out. New exhaust 2 years ago. So my option could be to drop a 350 TBI and with the 700r4 trans and wondering if you would just repair the transmission for ?? or spend the money to get the drive train changed out.

    Thanks for any help...
     
  7. Aug 21, 2017 at 5:59 AM
    #7
    Prerunner1982

    Prerunner1982 Well-Known Member

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    If you have the cash you can't go wrong with a V8, but it won't be the most cost effective option.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2017
    TheronHunt [OP] and aggrex like this.
  8. Aug 21, 2017 at 11:05 AM
    #8
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    in order to mate the 700r4 to the np231 you will need an adapter. Likely you will need to change out the output shaft requiring you to essentially rebuild the tranny, but not always necessary. It would be easieast to install a motor, tranny, Tcase all out of a donor truck if you are going the swap route. Ther is a lot involved in making everything jive together. Building new motor, tranny Tcase mounts or ordering them from conversion companyies like advanced adapters or Novak adapt. The easiest is to just rebuild the 5 speed, and later if you want a v8 adapt it to the 5speed. See Novak adapters .com or something like that.

    That brass and shavings you found were likely the synchro gear. If you pull it and take it to the tranny shop that rebuild should not be more than $400. It is usually around $500 labor you save pulling it yourself.
     
    JKBob 25, TheronHunt [OP] and aggrex like this.
  9. Aug 21, 2017 at 4:40 PM
    #9
    TheronHunt

    TheronHunt [OP] Member

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    It's real nice to have you guys out there. I think for now the best option would be the rebuild due to the cost and my ability to R & R and install it after repair. I appreciate the way it drives now so the V-8 can wait. Will I have to separate the transfer case from the transmission or not?

    Agress you mentioned having to make adjustments after the rebuild and I was curious about those adjustments if you could give some insight to the future task at hand.

    OFFGRID I have noticed You have been very informative/responsive throughout the forum as a whole and I want to thank you for your information and imncluding reference on contacts for the certain steps or decisions we all get ourselves into. I also assuming that you are favorable to the 5 speed transmission in the YJ as you mentioned to adapt the v-8 to the 5 speed at a later date. Is the failure due to the wrong fluids from the OEM and then suggesting the incorrect fluid when changing it?

    I am also guessing that although it's only 3rd gear it's not something I want to attempt myself being that I am not a mechanic and have never rebuilt a transmission. All other gears work great!

    Thank you all again
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2017
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  10. Aug 21, 2017 at 6:49 PM
    #10
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    My experience with synchros going bad has been because: 1. I am either trying to start off in third gear when I should be starting in 1st or 2nd and/or 2. I am trying to down shift too fast and forcing it into gear and/or 3. Coasting down a steep trail or mountain road leaving it in a lower gear letting the engine do the breaking I mean braking. I know it wears out your pads faster, but on the trails I don't let my engine do any braking. It is all brake pedal for me.

    YES It is easier to pull them down one at a time and install them one at a time. For me the Standards and tcases are light enough for me to bench press them into postion. Autos I use a Tranny jack. I make my own guide bolts by getting 2 long bolts for the bell housing cut the heads off and file the edges smoot. insert the bolt into the bell housing (or enging block if the bell housing and tranny are one unit) slide transmission on then add other bolts remove home made pins and replace with original bolts. repeat for the tcase.

    Thank you. Most of my knowledge is my trial and error. I'm not the best mechanic by far, but this forum keeps my mind sharp to the problems of jeeps, and helps me plan for future issues that I may face. I do like the 5 speed on the road and beach and light trails, but as soon as I hit any kind of difficulty on the trails I would much rather have the stability of an automatic. My dedicated extreme weather (cold or hot) trail rig, my JKU, is an automatic, and I have recently converted my CJ7 to a TH350 automatic (there wasn't enough room for the 700 without pushing the rear axle back several inches) for trails on the fair weather days. I only mentioned keeping the AX15 because to replace the whole drive train and make it fit is so much work that I don't know if I would do it again (I probably will) I hear it gets easier each time you do it.


    You have one of the best motors Jeep made in your jeep. It is the 5th year of the High Output 4.0 making 180 HP and 225 ft/lbs of torque. With a little work this motor can do a lot more. I believe Banks has a lot to offer for it including a turbo. . . . But who doesn't like a V8?

    While you are in there you might as well replace the clutch and the master and slave cylinders to the clutch.
     
    JKBob 25 and aggrex like this.
  11. Aug 23, 2017 at 6:21 AM
    #11
    TheronHunt

    TheronHunt [OP] Member

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    I will find a good rebuild shop and it's good to know that the engine is running great due to it's Genre and not my imagination. I will get the other items changed out as you suggested. Thanks again.
     
    OFFGRID and JKBob 25 like this.
  12. Aug 23, 2017 at 6:24 PM
    #12
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks OFFGRID. You learned me a few things too. As usual. :)
     
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