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94 Dana 35 questions

Discussion in 'Wrangler YJ (1986-1995)' started by Jerkbait66`, Jun 10, 2017.

  1. Jun 10, 2017 at 2:03 PM
    #1
    Jerkbait66`

    Jerkbait66` [OP] New Member

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    Jerry
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    1994 Wrangler YJ SE
    Currently stock. conversions comming
    I am beginning a project on my 94 YJ. I would like some input on upgrades to my Dana 35/30 axels. Budget is limited but not that badly. I want to end up with a cool ride that is very capable when I need it to be (Mudding only I can't find any rocks in Louisiana).

    So first I plan to upgrade my Dana 35 rear and 30 front axels to 30 spline with some type of locker. I am thinking Detroit lockers. ARB seem excessive in cost for budget. I would appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.
     
  2. Jun 10, 2017 at 5:13 PM
    #2
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Please don't make the same mistake I did. I wasted a ton of money installing lockers, axles, ring and pinions (for regearing) all of which is not usable on the axle upgrade you plan on in the near future. Let me take some of that back. When I built my CJ-7 I had no intention of running anything less than 37s. I thought that I could build up my Dana30 to handle them. I know that if I stay on the pavement I'm fine, but I found out that as soon as I do any moderate wheeling that I start exploding hubs. You can probably beef up what you have to handle 33s with some occasional carnage, but if as you say you will playing in lots of Louisiana (deep gumbo) mud then you probably have aspirations of 37s and bigger. If it were me I would find a Junked out rusted 70s to early 80s chevy 4x4 1/2ton (dana44 front/ GM 10or 12 bolt rear) or 3/4 to 1ton (Dana 44 or 60 front/ GM 12 or 14bolt rear) for next to nothing, take the axles and part out the rest. You will probably make some money doing so. This will help pay for your lockers and re-gearing. The front should be a direct bolt in except for the draglink. I believe all of these year model chevys are driver drop pumkins. The rear you just have to relocate the perches in a little. Make some custom drive shafts from Tom Woods and you're good to go.

    I run a detroit locker in the back and an eaton elocker in the front. I have been running this setup in both mud and hills for 3 years with no issues. I run G2 axles and ring and pinions also with no issues. I have a Dana 44 out of a full size 76 jeep grand wagoneer that I am building to replace the front Dana 30. For this I have purchased G2 axles, eaton elocker, and Revolution Gear ring and pinion. Revolution Gear was recently started by the engineers of the now defunct Superior Gear which made the best axles and R&Ps out there. Because they are just starting out they have the best prices.
    Good luck on your build. To me that is the best part of Jeeping.
     
    Bob and Jerkbait66` [OP] like this.
  3. Jun 10, 2017 at 9:44 PM
    #3
    Lineman1

    Lineman1 1990 yj

    Joined:
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    Sandy oregon
    Vehicle:
    1990 yj
    rear locker,garage fabricated rollbar, tube fenders,skid plates and rear bumper
    I have planned to do an axle upgrade as soon as my stock 30 front and 35 Detroit locked rear explode.I have read many claims of how weak these are,now not to contradict offgrid, I feel I may have been extremely lucky as I have run 35" coopers for 10 years now and test my jeep every chance I get,2 trips to Moab and countless trail runs mud,snow and rock as well as some aggressive Jumps at the dunes.I did break the rear axle twice at Moab on the sticky rocks my first trip (yes with upgrades it probably would not have happened) I compensated with less air and lower gearing and the 2nd trip was uneventful.10 years and still waiting to explode.I have a 44 front axle from a early Bronco with disk brake conversion that's been sitting on the shelf for 8 years now.
    My issues were drive lines and u joints, I built custom trac bars for the rear 50.00 in hem joints and tubing, installed a slip yoke eliminator as well as a cable actuated front dif,eliminating the vacuum lines.
    I have never run in your Louisiana mud ,my Detroit has never left me stranded it has taken me every where I have pointed it. A front cable actuated locker is my investment for the 44 in the mean time the winch is my front locker when needed.
    Good luck and enjoy
     
    Jerkbait66` [OP] likes this.
  4. Jun 11, 2017 at 5:30 AM
    #4
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    2,018
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I understand. You can do plenty especially if you take care of your jeep. Finesse will get you far on the trails. The YJ Dana 30 hubs are quite a bit different than the CJ Dana 30 hubs and a lot stronger, but Dana 44s/60s are a lot stronger than the Dana30/35. Hubs have been the only thing I have broken and they brake under very little pressure with my 37s. Last time it broke I was locked with left tires in the mud and right tires on dry ground trying to climb up a 3ft creek bank. I have trashed the factory Warn hubs, aftermarket Warn hubs, and now I am going to try Mile Marker stainless hubs. At least until I have time to rebuild My Dana 44. I would like to add that spinning in mud with sudden grabs of dry ground is very hard on the axles.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
    Jerkbait66` [OP] and Lineman1 like this.
  5. Jun 11, 2017 at 9:09 PM
    #5
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    2,018
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I was mistaken earlier. Chevys are usually passenger drop. You would need to look for a driver drop to work with you existing drive train. Both Ford and Dodge make driver drops, but watch out for Fords some of them are coil sprung in the front. You'll want leaf springs to make for an easier install on your jeep.
     
  6. Jun 12, 2017 at 7:57 AM
    #6
    Jerkbait66`

    Jerkbait66` [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2017
    Member:
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    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jerry
    Vehicle:
    1994 Wrangler YJ SE
    Currently stock. conversions comming
    Thanks for the replies. They are helpful and one thing I believe now more firmly is there is no real "Right Answer". I will spend some time thinking over the options and will try to let everyone know what I decide and how absurdly bad those decisions turn out to be.
     
    OFFGRID likes this.
  7. Jun 12, 2017 at 10:46 PM
    #7
    Lineman1

    Lineman1 1990 yj

    Joined:
    May 7, 2017
    Member:
    #1441
    Messages:
    13
    Gender:
    Male
    Sandy oregon
    Vehicle:
    1990 yj
    rear locker,garage fabricated rollbar, tube fenders,skid plates and rear bumper
    there is no wrong answer its a Jeep and no matter what you do it will be a goodtime
     
    OFFGRID likes this.
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