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Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by Rogue26, Sep 7, 2017.

  1. Sep 7, 2017 at 10:57 AM
    #1
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s
    For a number of years I have been assembling and selling auxiliary power panels for jeeps. They are based on the Bussman 15300 series panels and it was suggested by a purchaser that I post them here. They are very similar to an sPod type of panel with the DIY’er in mind. The panels with proper primary wire and over current protection run 146.50 including shipping and can utilize any 12v rated switch. This gives the option of using custom toggle switches to give a similar spod look or very basic toggles/maintained push buttons. The panels make use of relay logic and constant power circuits to control accessories like lights, power ports, CB’s and makes install a. Once the panel installation is complete each accessory is a single wire connection at the panel. They are automotive grade and come with a unique triple seal to keep water and moisture out. One of the key features for me is that all of the wiring connections utilize a factory crimper and not a terminal block screw as some of the all in one panels use. With the vibrations we see in jeeps it provides a much better longer term connection.

    Bussman RTMR auxiliary relay panel with 5 relays and 5 constant powered fused outputs. The panel is rated at 80a max, the relays are rated at 35a but are limited to 30a based on the max mini-fuse fuse size. Panels are built using MTW fine strand 105 degree rated wire.

    #12 for relay output

    #12 for constant fused output

    #16 for relays trigger



    The relay wiring is color coated for easy hook up with each relay having a matched set of wires as seen in the photo's. You hook the #16 up to your switched positive to energize the relay and you hook up the #12 to the positive side of your auxiliary load with the negative side being grounded close to the auxiliary device. The bundle of five matching color wires are the connection points to the constant powered fused outputs. The panel requires a positive connection to your battery which can be provided by purchasing the primary wire as an add on. I am including the relays with the panel but and 10 panel fuses 5-30a and 5-20. Over-current protection should be sized based on your specific needs depending on the load of your device.


    Panel Specifications:

    Input Terminal Rating: M6 input studs on bussed/partially bussed inputs: 80A max input on bussed fuse side, 80A max input on bussed relay side.

    Output Terminal Rating: 2.8mm blade terminals (30A max per terminal) Temperature Rating: -40°C (-40°F) to 125°C (260°F) (rating on PDM only)

    Ingress Protection Rating: IP66-IEC 60529 (Valid when properly installed with cover, sealed terminals, and cavity plugs.)


    General Panel Information:

    The Rear Terminal Mini Fuse and Relay panel (RTMR) provides efficient power distribution in a rugged compact form for applications in marine, construction, agriculture, heavy trucking, specialty vehicles, etc. This innovative product offers a weather tight enclosure (IP66) for various MINI (2.8mm) blade components when cover, cable seals, and cavity plugs are installed. It is available with various degrees of internal electrical bussing. Additionally, custom labels and multiple hardware configurations are available to solve any application need.

    These panels are a great option for extending your jeeps electrical system while keeping it clean and compact. They will work on an 12v power system so cars, trucks, boats, jeeps, tractors you name it. I can provide data sheets on the panels and relays as well as technical support in getting it hooked up if needed. Please feel free to post any questions you might have here in the thread so they can be answered for anyone else who might be interested. I normally ship within 1-2 days of receiving payment and will provide tracking on the package through PM.

    If interested please PM me with the items that you would like and I can give you a total price. Paypal is my preferred method of payment using the friends and family method of sending.

    106.50 - Base panel base panel includes: 6' of wire on the switch connections which should be enough to route to apillar or lower dash area, 12" wire length on relay output and 12v constant wiring, JK mounting bracket, and includes shipping within the US using 2-3 day priority flat rate shipping with USPS


    10.00 - #8 primary wire with ring terminal, covered with expandable braid, and marine grade heat shrink.


    30.00 - 80a resettable circuit breaker.


    All purchases include support by message or phone if needed. Please feel free to post questions here or by PM.


    Thanks

    7DCDCAC5-1454-4CF2-8632-38A5ECB65B6F.jpg
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    Bob, JKBob 25, aggrex and 1 other person like this.
  2. Sep 7, 2017 at 11:51 AM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    That's a nice, clean set up!
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  3. Sep 7, 2017 at 11:59 AM
    #3
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    2013 JKU
    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s
    For my personal installation I used some rocker switches from OTRATTW AND A ear apillar switch pod.
    15F5AA77-9894-4114-A110-31F237DEA535.jpg

    I had a buyer install some switches similar to these in his factory apiller.
    A1C0D5ED-7D48-4BD5-A68E-DA5E6BCFB7F6.jpg

    I am thinking about installing them in the open space to the left of the steering wheel above the dash speaker. Also looking to install an extra momentary switch that I can wire to my electric gate opener.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2017
  4. Sep 7, 2017 at 12:13 PM
    #4
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s
    This is the install with them in the pillar
    B4951A8C-B7E6-4C91-9DF7-0C6F93B706EA.jpg
    A1D56034-E58E-4F55-99B8-FEDAB15DF369.jpg
    860426F1-B93A-4B3F-BBE1-2E28D2BD7EAB.jpg
    They are very affordable and have a really nice finished look.
     
    JKBob 25, aggrex and chris4x4 like this.
  5. Sep 7, 2017 at 12:47 PM
    #5
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    Very cool! Is the wiring pretty simple?
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  6. Sep 7, 2017 at 7:20 PM
    #6
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    I really like that set up too. Looking for a clean set up.
    2 as of now. 2 more lights and maybe a winch set up. I really like your finished look. Nice dude..

    I spend to much time on this site. Lol. But it's all good. :annoyed:
     
  7. Sep 7, 2017 at 7:41 PM
    #7
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s

    The panel really makes the wiring very basic. Hardest part is really picking out the switches. There are so many different options out there and there are a couple of different methods of wiring them. For me I utilized the jeep accessory power circuit from the dash power port. I run a fair amount with doors off or windows down and no top so I didn’t want someone walking by and turning the switches on draining my battery. They can also be wired for constant power directly from the Bussman panel enabling the accessories regardless of key position.
     
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  8. Sep 7, 2017 at 7:59 PM
    #8
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    SO, I'm just trying to picture how this gets hooked up. There is a + and - that goes to the battery, the accessories get wired to the corresponding wires, and the switches? I already have switches, just wondering how I would hook this up. Also, is the mount included with the price?
     
  9. Sep 7, 2017 at 9:00 PM
    #9
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    Tuffy>AEV>TTO>JW>STech>EVOcage>MagnaFlow>SpiderTrax>RockHard>TF>SpringTail>67design>Bolt>GPCA>Curt>
    Unless the wire colors have changed the orange wires can connect to your existing switches (6th pic) or follow his electric diagram (1rst pic)
     
    JKBob 25 and chris4x4 like this.
  10. Sep 7, 2017 at 9:02 PM
    #10
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s
    The main panel gets wired from the battery using the primary battery cable. It is a single 8awg that goes from the battery to the circuit breaker and from the breaker to the positive terminal of the panel. The panel has a small negative wire that connects to a factory negative stud on the driver side wheel well. That takes care of the main power for the panel.

    There are 5 small 16awg wires that control each relay. They get connected to the output of your switches. They are color coded with heat shrink and correspond to each relay output which is a 12awg wire. The really nice part about it is that you wire your 5 switches to the 16awg wires and all of the relay wiring is done. As you add accessories in the future you make one single connection at the Bussman and then ground the negative wire as close to the accessory as practical.

    Do you currently have your switches installed/wired? What type of switches are they? If they are rockers to they have lights to indicate if they are on? You can also get rockers that have a second light to illuminate a description.

    For my rockers I wired the input power to the switches from the power port and then jumpered all 4 switches together, I also have the second light on the rocker that I wired to the dash illumination circuit. That turns the description on with the headlights and allows dimming. That got jumpered together on all 4 switches. Since I have lights on the rockers it also requires a negative connection so I jumpered all the negatives together and took them to a factory ground stud in the drivers footwell.

    5F3FAE42-874D-45AE-985F-AC4876E4DB78.jpg

    Yes the mounting bracket is included as is all the needed 1/4-20 hardware for mounting the panel and circuit breaker. Only thing needed is a couple of ty-wraps, switches, and what ever your preference is for connecting the accessories to the panel wires. Some like to solder and heatshrink, some like to use buttsplices, some like a quick connector so they can remove the panel if needed.

    Let me know if that helped or if I just muddled it up more. If you could describe your switches and how you are wanting them to function that would help.
     
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  11. Sep 7, 2017 at 9:05 PM
    #11
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s
    This is the message that I normally send out right after I ship a panel.



    When you open the package you will notice that there are a number of packages inside. The two larger wires are the primary feeder wires and the short goes from battery to 80a CB, long goes from CB to bussman landed on the side with the red cap. The breaker has markings on it for BAT and AUX. You will also see a smaller black wire with ring terminals. That attaches to the bussman on the negative stud and goes to chassis ground on your jeep. This wire can be made longer if needed and just needs to be grounded. The JK's have factory ground studs all around the jeep. You also received 5 1/4" bolts that are for the breaker and panel mounting. The 4 smaller machine screws are for the bussman mounting legs which sit on the top side of the panel with the screws holding them on. One of the screws holds the cover retaining loop. Inside the panel you have the 5 relays and 10 fuses. The 30a are for the relay output wires. Which have the color coated heatshrink on them. The 20a are the constant hots which have the red heatshrink. I typically only provide 20a fuses for the constant hots. If the Bussman is providing power to your switches for the relays I recommend changing the fuse out to a 5a or 10a. I always suggest to pull any unused fuses to prevent possible shorts if the wiring touches a grounded surface. Please let me know if you have any questions or concerns. Thanks again for the purchase.
     
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  12. Sep 7, 2017 at 9:08 PM
    #12
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    This is how I have my switches. They are rockers, with an "On" Light:

    [​IMG]
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  13. Sep 7, 2017 at 9:19 PM
    #13
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s
    That makes it pretty easy, for My color coding I use green, yellow, white, blue, black. You would connect the yellow to one switch output and the green to the other switch output. When ever you turn on the yellow switch the relay energizes and provides high current (up to 30a) capability on the yellow 12awg wire that you connecto to your accessory. The relays are such a low current draw that you could install 5 switches and jumper the incoming power all together from one source. Then connect the 5 colored Bussman wires to the switch outputs.
     
  14. Sep 8, 2017 at 5:34 PM
    #14
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    What does the "105 degree" mean?
     
  15. Sep 8, 2017 at 5:51 PM
    #15
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s
    It is the temperature rating of the wire insulation. 105 degrees Celsius which equals about 220 degree F.
     
    chris4x4[QUOTED] likes this.
  16. Sep 8, 2017 at 6:19 PM
    #16
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    Great to know! I thought it was F, and a little nervous.
     
  17. Sep 8, 2017 at 6:32 PM
    #17
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    As I've said before. My biggest weak link is electrical systems. And most of what you said was Chinese to me. But after reading your posts twice. It's all starting to make sense. Thanks Brian.

    I am at some point going to install another light bar, and possibly a winch. Along with the 2 light set ups i have. And one of your set ups would work great. Just curious. How long does it take you to put one of these together?
     
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  18. Sep 8, 2017 at 7:45 PM
    #18
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s

    I assembled them and package them in about 40 minutes. I normally make all the wire terminations to do 8-10 panels at a time and then actually assemble the panels as ordered in case the buyer has any special requests.

    The panels work good for for most loads but the winch circuit requires a high current solenoid that could possibly be Switches with just a switch and not a relay. Just depends on the current draw of the solenoid. There are different opinions about utilizing switching on winch power. But that is a whole other conversation
     
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  19. Sep 8, 2017 at 8:00 PM
    #19
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    Sweet. Honestly. The only thing that scares me as an complete novice to electrical systems short of plug and plays. Which is what my light bar and pods are. Is dismantling them to hook up to your set up. Your going to have to walk me thru it.

    But I'm subbed. I like the fact I can hook up all to one circuit board.
     
  20. Sep 8, 2017 at 8:01 PM
    #20
    Rogue26

    Rogue26 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Front/Rear bumpers, 10k Smittybilt Winch, Bussman Auxiliary Power Panel, Joying Android Stereo, Cibie H4 Headlight Upgrade, 50” Lightbar. Planning: 2.5” TeraflexLift, 35” KO2’s, Regear from 3.21 to 4.56’s

    That is all part of the service. Do you have switches set up already? Or do you have an idea of what you want to do for switches?
     
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