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Caliper mount removal?

Discussion in 'Cherokee' started by Gps2808, Dec 27, 2018.

  1. Dec 27, 2018 at 7:49 AM
    #1
    Gps2808

    Gps2808 [OP] New Member

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    Hey guys, I’m just starting to do a lot of my own auto work and learning along the way. Today I went to change pads and rotors (should be an easy job) but I can’t get the rotor out. Everything I read says I may have to loosen the caliper mount, but then I come across these bolts with a head I’ve never seen before (see pic). Those don’t even appear to hold the rotor on at all, but it’s worth trying. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    91814EFC-C5EC-4116-8552-8FE89484FBB1.jpg
     
  2. Dec 27, 2018 at 8:03 AM
    #2
    Prerunner1982

    Prerunner1982 Well-Known Member

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    Can you get a picture a little further back for better perspective/orientation?

    Here are some procedures I found online that mention an external Torx E-20 socket but nothing about a Torx bit. I do see where an external Torx socket would go just to the left of the torx bolt you are looking at and they appear to be about the same size so maybe an E-20 Torx bit for the bolt in question?

    1) Jack it up! I lifted on the subframe and put jack stands just behind the wheels

    2) I used my impact gun with a 19mm socket to remove the (5) wheel bolts

    3) 14mm socket to remove (2) caliper bolts that mount caliper to caliper bracket

    5) suspend caliper from spring with rope/bungee/wire

    **if not changing rotors skip to 13 and ignore 15**

    6) External Torx E-20 to remove (2) single use caliper bracket bolts--order (4 [to complete both sides]) 06510023AA From dealer in advance.

    Note: three of mine came out with my impact gun @ 90 psi. The fourth wouldn't budge, even @ 120 psi. I fought with one bolt for an hour! The only way I got it was I turned the knuckle out, got a large breaker bar with a long pipe and cranked it out.

    7) 5mm allen socket to remove rotor mount bolt

    8) smack rotor with 3-5 lb hammer at 6-12-3-9 o'clock until released from rust

    9) scour rust from hub with red pad/sand paper

    10) apply antiseize to hub surface for future removal ease

    11) install new rotor
    *spray both sides of the surface of the rotor with brake cleaner

    12) replace 5mm allen rotor mount bolt

    13) pop old hardware out of caliper bracket
    **pay attention to how they are in there!

    14) lube hardware gap, place new hardware, lube new hardware

    15) remount caliper bracket with NEW caliper mount bolts

    16) install squealers on new pads (my OE were always on the end of the pad that pointed upwards) and lube the tabs and backing plate of the pad

    17) pop new pads into bracket
    *Easiest way is to put end with squealer in then use small flat-blade to lever the bottom tab into place.

    18) compress Pistons back into caliper
    *keep old pad on piston side and use caliper tool or c-clamp. Make sure it is fully pressed back in

    19) remount caliper with 14mm bolts

    20) remount wheel, hand tighten wheel bolts

    21) repeat on the other side

    22) lower truck and torque 19mm wheel studs using star torque sequence
     
  3. Dec 27, 2018 at 8:09 AM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    Welcome to the site!
     
    Gps2808 [OP] likes this.
  4. Dec 27, 2018 at 8:11 AM
    #4
    Prerunner1982

    Prerunner1982 Well-Known Member

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    Oh and welcome from Oklahoma.
     
    TJ_abuser likes this.
  5. Dec 27, 2018 at 8:13 AM
    #5
    Gps2808

    Gps2808 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the reply! I actually saw those same precoedures before. Again, I’m just starting to do my own work, so I’m hoping it’s just something dumb (like I’m looking at the wrong bolts) but here’s a better picture from under the Jeep facing outward. You can see the brand new pads on the mounting bracket, but it seems I need to move this to knock the rotor off

    6E4E23D6-E729-4421-B745-39314513FCBE.jpg
     
  6. Dec 27, 2018 at 8:29 AM
    #6
    Prerunner1982

    Prerunner1982 Well-Known Member

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    Here are the procedures from AllData for Brake Rotor Removal, unfortunately they don't note the tool sizes needed. So you are on the right track, hopefully someone will chime in with the exact size, I'm thinking it's close to E-20 torx though comparing the torx near it.

    1. Raise and support the vehicle See: Maintenance\Vehicle Lifting\Service and Repair
    2. Remove the wheel mounting bolts, then the tire and wheel assembly.
    [​IMG]



    1. Remove the two brake caliper adapter bolts (2).
    NOTE: The bolts are one time use and need to be discarded.
    1. Remove the disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly and hang it out of the way using wire or a bungee cord. Use care not to overextend the brake hose when doing this.
    2. Remove the rotor retaining bolt and remove the rotor from the hub and bearing.
     
  7. Dec 28, 2018 at 12:46 PM
    #7
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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  8. Dec 28, 2018 at 3:17 PM
    #8
    Gps2808

    Gps2808 [OP] New Member

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    Ok I appreciate all the help. I figured it out. It was just a T55. I’ve just never seen a torx with the 3 grooves like that and thought it might be a specialty tool. Was told it’s likely designed like that so the robots can grip it while installing at manufacturing. No idea if that is legit. Either way problem solved and rotors swapped
     
    aggrex likes this.
  9. Dec 28, 2018 at 4:47 PM
    #9
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    I think the 3 cuts in the head mean its a "Torque to yield" bolt, thus a one time use. Could be why the information @Prerunner1982 gave you states to discard them after use.
     
  10. Dec 29, 2018 at 7:51 AM
    #10
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    Tuffy>AEV>TTO>JW>STech>EVOcage>MagnaFlow>SpiderTrax>RockHard>TF>SpringTail>67design>Bolt>GPCA>Curt>
    Interesting bolt head design as not all "torque-to-yield" fasteners have those 3 cuts. IMO stronger conventional bolts, torqued down, blue lock-tite should be sufficient but FCA designers knows whats best.
     
    chris4x4 likes this.
  11. Jul 19, 2019 at 9:53 AM
    #11
    Slimfiredl7

    Slimfiredl7 New Member

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    So I have been researching this as I am replacing the pads in my 2015 Cherokee Latitude with the 2.4L engine. On mine, the front 2 and rear 2 caliper bracket bolts are called a Torque-to-yield fastener. A torque to yield fastener (TTY) or stretch bolt is a fastener which is torqued beyond the state of elasticity and therefore undergoes plastic deformation, causing it to become permanently elongated. This is why they are a one time use. You can only get them from a dealer. I found some online but I don't want to take a chance on my brakes with an non OEM after market bolt. The front 2 are an external (female) E-20 torx bit. The rear ones are a regular T55 torx bit. Some engineer somewhere at Chrysler wins the douchbag of the year award. What was he thinking, "How can I screw the DIYer today? I know, disposable bolts of different sizes and different bits they will need to purchase because, who the hell has a set of external torx bits, right?" Yeah... about as wonderful as wheel lug studs and lug nuts all in one...
     
  12. Nov 14, 2019 at 9:57 AM
    #12
    Irvingg24

    Irvingg24 New Member

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    I am looking for the Part Number for the 2 bolts for the rear bracket for 2016 Cherokee. Thank you for your help
     
  13. Nov 14, 2019 at 3:32 PM
    #13
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    Tuffy>AEV>TTO>JW>STech>EVOcage>MagnaFlow>SpiderTrax>RockHard>TF>SpringTail>67design>Bolt>GPCA>Curt>
    Welcome @Irvingg24 ...the parts counter at the local dealer ought to have them in stock.
     

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