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Carb flooding

Discussion in 'Jeep CJ' started by swamprat78, Apr 15, 2017.

  1. Apr 15, 2017 at 1:25 PM
    #1
    swamprat78

    swamprat78 [OP] Member

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2017
    Member:
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    Vehicle:
    1979 CJ5
    Hey guys, i recently replaced my carb with a united reman carb and now my 79 Cj5 is acting up bad when she's cold she runs fine but when she's hot she stalls or spits and sputter really bad.

    I notice if the butterfly lever is partly open she runs great but when the butterfly is open and the idle screw isn't resting on it she spits and sputters and dies and wont start up till shes cooled down a lot.

    I also notice when u shut her off the fuel is steadily pouring into the bottom and if u disconnect the fuel line it sprays hard almost like its over pressured.

    Anybody got any ideas? I'm lost on this issue.
     
  2. Jan 24, 2018 at 7:55 AM
    #2
    Cj5_fan

    Cj5_fan Member

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    Jeff
    Sedona, AZ
    Vehicle:
    1980 CJ5
    304 V8 Renegade with 4" lift, LSD front and rear, 3.73 pushing 33x12.5 duratracs.
    I would verify a couple things. First, what type of carburetor is it? Is it original? Assuming that you have the original carburetor still, I would verify that the vent return line to the tank is still connected and properly positioned to allow excess pressure in the fuel system to vent back to the tank. I would also verify that your float is set correctly inside the carburetor and that the needle valve is working correct. If both of those are correct then I would verify that the choke is correct. There are many posted threads on how to verify a choke so I won't get into that. If all of those things checkout and you are still flooding then I would look a little deeper and verify you do not have a ruptured power valve or some crack or defect in the carburetor housing. The fact that it works okay when cold but not when hot often points out that the choke is not correctly adjusted. One final thing you could consider but it doesn't sound likely in your scenario is that you are getting a vapor lock when hot and not flooding out the same as the above situations create. If you are vapor locking that is caused by the gas in the car boiling and expanding often flooding the motor or assuming you have the original mechanical fuel pump scenario still, ethanol based gas boils easier than standard gas and can cause a low-pressure situation at the mouth of the fuel pump causing a vapor lock and starving the motor for fuel until it cools back down. Check all these things and good luck.
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  3. Jan 24, 2018 at 1:13 PM
    #3
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    DE
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    Tuffy>AEV>TTO>JW>STech>EVOcage>MagnaFlow>SpiderTrax>RockHard>TF>SpringTail>67design>Bolt>GPCA>Curt>
    Welcome CJ5_fan to jeeps.net. Already assisting fellow jeepers - wow! Post some pics of the CJ
     
  4. Jan 24, 2018 at 7:21 PM
    #4
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    Jersey Shore, NJ
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    2" Superlift kit. 315/ 70/17.
    Welcome to the forum Cj5_fan.

    Agree with @Cj5_fan. I've rebuilt several Holley carbs which is pretty much your basic 2 and 4 barrel carbs. The first thing you'll want to check is your float level. If Its set to high. You will flood it. When manufactures send out new carbs. They are not set to any specific motor because they all have different settings. And , motor heads love to :censored: with carbs and motors. Lolll. Also. Close off the jets. Turn them to the left until they seat. Open them up about a 1 1/2 turns. That will give you a basic starting point. And you can tune it from there. But, the biggest issue. Make sure the float is set. And go from there. Also, Cj5_fans advice is right on target. He knows what he's talkin about.
    Keep us posted on how you make out dude. We could use this thread to help others.
     
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