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Darty and wandering down the road

Discussion in 'Wrangler TJ (1996-2006)' started by Yelojeep, Jan 28, 2017.

  1. Jan 28, 2017 at 5:27 AM
    #1
    Yelojeep

    #1
    Yelojeep [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2017
    Member:
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    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 wrangler
    3" suspension lift. 2" body lift. Rancho shocks, skyjacker dual steering stablizer, adjustable front control arms, 1 1/2" lowered transfer case .35x12.50x15 bf Goodrich all terrain on 10" rims
    I have a 2001 wrangler with 3" suspension lift and 2" body lift. Driving at highway speeds it feels as if the wheels are being turned slightly left and right. Feels like a boat rocking. I have to continually stay on top of steering. Kind of darty driving straight. Tierods and ball joints all tight. New double stabilizer. New bushings and adjustable control arms. Caster is 86 degrees and toe 1/8 in.
    Any ideas on fixing this issue?
    Thanks in advance
    Mike
     
    Yelojeep, Jan 28, 2017
    #1
  2. Jan 28, 2017 at 8:43 AM
    #2
    OFFGRID

    #2
    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
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    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Have you ever replaced your ball joints? I know you said they are tight, but. . . I feel the same about the tierods. Have you added a steering stabilizer? With 5in of lift I bet you are running 35s. If you are running the recommended air pressure on the sidewall of the tire you probably have too much air making you squirrelly. Jeeps don't weigh very much requiring less air in the tire. I run 37x14.50x15 on 15x10 wheels and I like to run 12lbs. If your are running 35s or even 33s Id run about 20lbs. How about the control arm bushings? When you go big even slight ware causes big changes, so I would go back to basics and replace anything you haven't already replaced starting with, tierod ends, ball joints, control arm bushings, steering stabilizer. . . I would consider even less toe in if possible. I run mine at zero to less than a 16th of toe. Bigger tires accentuate the toe in. Almost forgot Steering gear box. Hope this helps.
     
    OFFGRID, Jan 28, 2017
    #2
  3. Jan 28, 2017 at 9:15 AM
    #3
    Yelojeep

    #3
    Yelojeep [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2017
    Member:
    #882
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 wrangler
    3" suspension lift. 2" body lift. Rancho shocks, skyjacker dual steering stablizer, adjustable front control arms, 1 1/2" lowered transfer case .35x12.50x15 bf Goodrich all terrain on 10" rims
    Thanks for the info. I'll try the air pressure and tierods ends hopefully that will help
     
    Yelojeep, Jan 28, 2017
    #3
  4. Jan 28, 2017 at 4:37 PM
    #4
    C2T

    #4
    C2T Well-Known Member

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    First Name:
    Richard
    Helena, Montana
    Vehicle:
    Jeep
    2.5" AEV Dual Sport lift, 35" Treadwright Guard Dogs, Black Rock Wheels, AEV Front & Rear Bumpers with Tire Carrier, Fuel Caddy 10 gal. Aux. fuel tank, Warn 9.5ti, 125' synthetic winch line, front axle skid, 20" LED light bar , Bilstein Shocks, steel steering skidplate,
    Peter has good advice...

    However, with a lift of that size, if you have not taken the proper steps to accommodate the changes in steering geometry, that can throw everything off and cause the exact issue you describe. Do you have a Drop Pitman Arm and/or a longer Drag Link? These can be called for with 5" of lift.

    Just a thought... :)
     
    C2T, Jan 28, 2017
    #4
    OFFGRID likes this.
  5. Jan 29, 2017 at 5:00 AM
    #5
    Yelojeep

    #5
    Yelojeep [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2017
    Member:
    #882
    Messages:
    3
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2001 wrangler
    3" suspension lift. 2" body lift. Rancho shocks, skyjacker dual steering stablizer, adjustable front control arms, 1 1/2" lowered transfer case .35x12.50x15 bf Goodrich all terrain on 10" rims
    I'm not sure about the pitman arm or drag link. We had this jeep lifted in 2002 and not sure if drag link was changed. I believe the pitman arm is stock. We never really drove the jeep much until last year. I've been replacing parts and driveability has gotten much better. I'm trying to get the little bugs out of it. I have a. Ew pitman arm ordered. I'll post my results after installation. Thanks for the info
    Mike
     
    Yelojeep, Jan 29, 2017
    #5
  6. Jan 29, 2017 at 6:32 AM
    #6
    OFFGRID

    #6
    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    2,018
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    A dropped pitman arm will take care of any "Bump steer". You feel bump steer most when you go through a big dip or series of dips in the road and the steering wheel moves side to side on its own with each dip.
     
    OFFGRID, Jan 29, 2017
    #6
  7. Jan 31, 2017 at 8:35 AM
    #7
    Tgraham43

    #7
    Tgraham43 Member

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2017
    Member:
    #796
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Tim
    Vehicle:
    2004 yellow rubicon
    4.5" suspension with 2 inch body lift.
    I'm having the same problem as well.
     
    Tgraham43, Jan 31, 2017
    #7
  8. Feb 6, 2017 at 11:53 AM
    #8
    kirby

    #8
    kirby New Member

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    Vehicle:
    1980 jeep cj5
    on the wandering issue... i increased the toe in..Not decreased it.
     
    kirby, Feb 6, 2017
    #8
  9. Jun 26, 2017 at 8:18 AM
    #9
    Pcchadwe

    #9
    Pcchadwe Member

    Joined:
    Jun 26, 2017
    Member:
    #1607
    Messages:
    11
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Phillip
    Vehicle:
    2005 TJ Rubicon
    4" lift, headers, stainless steal cat back system, 33" wheels, 9.5ti Warn winch, cold air induction, gel battery, crawler bumpers, lifted induction,
    Replace the drag link I have an 05 and my Bud had an 01. We both had similar issue and we both replaced the drag link, as previously stated, the drag link should have a new hole to bolt into, or a longer drag link. Most of the time the drag link will have a new mounting hole drilled in just about 1.5" below the original hole.
    Also, just like P above, iron 33" at 25 psi
     
    Pcchadwe, Jun 26, 2017
    #9
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