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First time jeep owner, have some questions.

Discussion in 'Cherokee' started by Art, Sep 21, 2018.

  1. Sep 21, 2018 at 4:22 PM
    #1
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I have added to the collection a 1995 Jeep Cherokee "Country". I've pretty much always had Fords, spare an old Voyager that I got for free, but that's another story. I currently drive a Ranger. I like the Rangers, I've always had one. Well anyways, the girlfriends car has been having a bunch of issues and I've decided that it's time for it to go away. She found this Jeep, so I went to check it out.

    244K on the clock.
    4.0
    5 speed

    Handful of stuff wrong with it, one of the rear shock's lower mounting stud is broke off, needs a brake caliper, the temp gauge doesn't work, floor pan is rotted through. Oil pressure starts dropping off at idle once it gets nice and hot. I'm sure there are other things that I've either forgotten to mention, or haven't found out about yet.

    Honestly, the thing starts right up and runs pretty good considering that the guy I got it from said he never did a tune up in the 4 years he had it. Drives great, shifts good, and has plenty of power. Steering is nice and tight. I had looked at another one of a similar year and mileage, and I'm honestly blown away how nice these run and drive for the year and mileage.
    I gave the guy $1000 for the jeep. I'm hoping I haven't done too awfully bad. I drove it over an hour home from the guys house and it didn't seem unhappy at all.

    Now it's in my driveway and I'm planning on doing a handful of things this weekend, fresh oil and filter, grease job, see how the brakes are doing, air filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, check the PCV valve, change the fuel filter, and I was planning on draining and refilling the transfer case, checking the fluid in the diffs, and flushing the cooling system. At least those are the things on my to do list. Obviously I also plan to put a replacement stud in that rear shock mount, and I bought a coolant temp sensor that I'm hoping will bring my temp gauge back.

    When I went to buy parts they showed two different caps and two different rotors for this motor. Were there different distributors or something? And how do I figure out which one I need?

    Like I said, this is my first Jeep. The Ranger forums were extremely helpful when I bought my first truck so I figured I should get an account on the Jeep forums and see what you guys had to say. Is there any thing else that I should do? Comments? Suggestions?
    Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance.

    Art
     
  2. Sep 21, 2018 at 7:58 PM
    #2
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to the forum Art.. @Art .
    Congrats on your first Jeep. Although you have many questions on your first bankruptcy project. And I honestly don't mean that as a reflection on your Jeep. It's a reflection on any Jeep project. As you will soon find out.:spending::annoyed:....:).

    But...I can promise you this. You'll have a blast with it. Have fun...And post pics. We like Jeep porn...:p
     
  3. Sep 21, 2018 at 9:08 PM
    #3
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    Welcome! Impressive to-do-list for the weekend(s). Many on your list are typical routine maintenance items that are probably long overdue. What's the plan for the rotted floor pan? That will be needed to be addressed to control exhaust, noise, water etc as well as what may have caused the floor pan rot. Keep us posted on your repairs and post some questions.

    Since the Jeep is running pretty good perhaps bring the rotor/cap to the local auto parts store to get the exact replacement.
     
  4. Sep 22, 2018 at 5:36 AM
    #4
    Jeep4Life

    Jeep4Life Well-Known Member

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    Welcome from Florida. That's your weekend to do list. Wow, my 2 kids wouldn't let me finish that in a year much less a weekend! lol

    Congrat's on joining Jeep Nation! Post some pics!
     
  5. Sep 22, 2018 at 7:41 AM
    #5
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    Welcome aboard!
     
  6. Sep 22, 2018 at 7:59 AM
    #6
    Awrench

    Awrench Well-Known Member

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    good purchase - jeeps are easy and quirky - keep it stock for dependability, some parts need to be OEM and plugs are one of them...CHAMPION.

    "two different caps and two different rotors for this motor." shop local, bring parts with you , match them up, have VIN# , START A REPPORT, RECOMEND napa, MY CHOICE.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2018
  7. Nov 8, 2018 at 4:20 PM
    #7
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I've got pics coming your way:

    IMG_0829.jpg IMG_0835.jpg IMG_0837.jpg IMG_0839.jpg IMG_0842.jpg
     
    aggrex and chris4x4 like this.
  8. Nov 8, 2018 at 4:25 PM
    #8
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    Weekends indeed. I haven't decided what to do about the floor pan yet. I'm open to suggestions. I already have plenty of questions!
    I took the rotor up there with me and they were able to match it up
     
  9. Nov 8, 2018 at 4:26 PM
    #9
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I always go with Champion plugs in all my junk. I just went with the coppers this time.
     
  10. Nov 8, 2018 at 5:12 PM
    #10
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I know I haven't posted in a while. We've been swamped at work so I wasn't able to get started on the jeep as quickly as I would've liked. Obviously I did get some pictures up. The 50 foot paint job definitely isn't too pretty, and I haven't decided exactly how much bondo is hidden under there yet. The underneath really isn't bad at all for a '95. But I did finally get to my list, and have some questions.

    The sticker on the windshield indicated that they had put 5W-20 in it. I went ahead and put 10W-40 Mobil 1 in there, seems to like it. Fuel filter looked real old, and was probably long overdue for replacement. Plugs and wires did not go entirely according to plan. I took out some Bosch plugs that were all at around .070, and looked pretty old. One of the plugs up front is very stubborn. It'll spin out a few turns and then it just binds up. I've put about as much pressure on it as I'm willing to. I don't really feel like snapping it off. Anybody have any ideas?

    Pretty much all the fluids looked overdue to be changed. Trans, transfer case, and diffs were pretty dark and I could see the sparkle of metal in there. Anyone put drain plugs in their diff covers? Seems like I could drill and tap 'em, way less of a hassle than re-gasketing the covers.

    What driver fits the block drain plug? The coolant that I drained out of the radiator was pretty rusty, and upon closer inspection, the radiator doesn't look to be in that great of shape. I see a fair amount of damaged/deteriorated fins. May have to be replaced at some point. I really need to get the coolant temperature gauge fixed. Coolant temp sensor did NOT bring my gauge back. What else might be wrong? I would really like to have that gauge working so I know if it's getting hot so I can get that radiator replaced if I need to. Can I put an aftermarket one in? What tells the electric cooling fan when to kick on and off? I've never had an electric cooling fan before.

    I would like to rip all the air conditioning stuff out. Anybody already done this that can tell me how much of a project it is? It would appear that I have to install a bypass pulley to do this. Is this the case? In my Ranger I was just able to re-route a shorter belt.

    Also, some less technical questions. The Jeep has a little arrow that comes on that I believe is a shift light. It seems to me like it comes on quite early. What RPM do these Jeeps like to shift at? I've noticed that sometimes going into 2nd gear is a little bit tricky. Is this a common problem for the AX15?

    What's the story with this transfer case? On my Bronco, I have to jump out and lock the hubs, this doesn't appear to work like that.

    I'm thinking about buying some winter tires for it, we definitely get some heavy snowfall up here in Michigan. What size tires can I get away with without lifting it? On my Ranger I could tuck 235/75's and they only rub a little bit with the steering fully cocked.

    Like I said, this is my first Jeep. So far, I'm liking it. I've driven it around a little bit and it's very nice to drive. Fairly easy to work on, too, which is a nice change.
    As usual, I figured I should get back on the Jeep forums and see what you guys had to say. Is there any thing else that I should do? Comments? Suggestions?
    Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance.

    Art
     
    JKBob 25 and chris4x4 like this.
  11. Nov 8, 2018 at 9:28 PM
    #11
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    I'll comment on a few topics: used only 5W30 in my '94 GC. Flush, drain, replace the rusty coolant. If the hoses are good and no unusual leaks nor overheating you could delay radiator replacement and focus on the sensor, thermostat, etc. If the threads are stripped for the spark plug that will need to be addressed as soon as you get it out. Sometimes you can chase the old threads with a tap or insert a Helicoil or other methods as others chime in. I would probably purchase new diff covers with the drain+fill plugs. Unless the a/c system is beyond repair I'm not a fan of ripping the system out as the a/c can keep the windows fog-free. Generally automotive electric fans have a thermostat kit and/or manually triggered.
     
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  12. Nov 9, 2018 at 7:30 AM
    #12
    Awrench

    Awrench Well-Known Member

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    remove AC - are you kidding us fix it!

    leave those drain plugs in block - likely been there since manufactured. nothing good will happen.
    the stuck spark plug should b 1st issue addressed.
    I would not drill drain holes in diff.
    try getting a spray carb cleaner - to soak and run down the threaded portion of plug..hope its carbon issue.
    look for rust patch panels hopefully a floor patch kit .

    https://www.morris4x4center.com/replacement-parts/body-frame/floor-pan/jeep_cherokee_xj.htm
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018 at 7:37 AM
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  13. Nov 11, 2018 at 4:58 PM
    #13
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I can't tell if it's overheating or not since the gauge doesn't work. I replaced the sensor already, no change. I wouldn't think that it's the thermostat because the gauge never moves at all. Where can I find diff covers with both plugs. I looked a little bit but didn't find anything. Best way to make certain that electric cooling fan is coming on?
     
  14. Nov 11, 2018 at 5:02 PM
    #14
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    Where I live it seldom gets very hot. I don't have AC in most of my junk, never needed it. In the few that do it's caused me nothing but headache to have it and keep it functional. In my experience it's been way easier to tear that stuff out, then I don't have to worry about it anymore. In my Mercury the AC used to cause the vehicle to overheat whenever it was on, and I've had the compressors seize up on me in other vehicles at the most inconvenient of times.
     
  15. Nov 11, 2018 at 5:18 PM
    #15
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I tried to change out that rear shock today. Upper mounting bolts snapped off. Lower mounting stud was already snapped off. Tried to drill out the upper bolts, had my drill bits snap off on me right as they started to break through. Conveniently buried so I can't get them out. The stud replacement kit that I have isn't long enough to make it through that lower bracket, I'm sure anybody who's already done one of these knows what I'm talking about. How to proceed?? Do I need to grind all that material from the old mounting stud off or can I just go with a long 1/2" bolt with some kind of sleeve on it? And for the uppers I'm kind of at a loss. The upper mount is less than convenient for this to happen. I was just going to drill them out and tap for 3/8" fasteners. Is that the best way to go? What have others done? I'm sure I'm not the first one of encounter this problem.

    Thanks,
    Art.
     
  16. Nov 12, 2018 at 10:55 AM
    #16
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    You asked about the shift light. It comes on to tell you when to shift for optimal fuel mpg. It is very early for my taste.
     
  17. Nov 12, 2018 at 6:37 PM
    #17
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    As to your shock studs breaking.
    Had this happen with my XJ a few years back. I drilled out entire stud. Honestly, I forget what size drill I used. And had a welding shop weld in bolts with the heads cut off. They held up for years. Good luck dude.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2018 at 6:56 PM
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  18. Nov 12, 2018 at 8:03 PM
    #18
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    If the stock temperature gauge is defective consider adding an auxiliary temperature gauge. Quadratec.com is one source for replacement temp gauge as well as new diff covers with at least the fill holes. Drill out the broken bolts and retap for new shock mount bolts.
     
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  19. Nov 14, 2018 at 9:39 AM
    #19
    Prerunner1982

    Prerunner1982 Well-Known Member

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    Maybe spray some penetrating oil down into it, but that's a tough one. Pulling the head isn't all that hard, it's just heavy. I would leave the intake and exhaust on it and use a hoist to lift it off. Good luck.

    RTV is cheap and easier than trying to add a drain plug. You could get the LubeLocker gasket which is reusable.

    What sensor did you replace? There are actually 2 of them. The one on the front is for the computer and the electric fan. There is another small one on the back of the head on the driver's side for the gauge. The electric fan will turn on when the engine temp gets up to something like 218-221° or when the A/C is on.

    Should be easy to pull the compressor, maybe cap off the lines and put in a bypass pulley. The pulley bolts to the compressors base mount.

    My shift light comes on about 1800-2000 rpm. I actually shift there anyway unless I am going up hill and don't want to bog the engine down when I shift. In daily driving I don't need to get it up much more than that. As far as the 2nd gear shift, try going to Redline MT-90 fluid. I too had the trouble with 2nd gear. But in the re-built I replaced the entire clutch system and swapped to MT-90 fluid and now she shifts great.

    There are no locking hub, the axles are engaged all the time and the transfer case is shift on the fly. You either have a NP231 which has 4hi, 4lo, 2wd, and N or the NP242 which has 4wd full time, 4wd part time, 4lo, 2wd, and N. If you have the NP231 the 4wd is not meant to be used on pavement however if you have the NP242 the 4wd full time can be driven daily regardless of surface.
    The early XJs (and YJ Wranglers) had a central axle disconnect that used vacuum to move a collar to disconnect the passenger side 2 piece axle shaft. Thankfully they got rid of that around '91.

    235s should fit fine. 30x9.5s should as well as they are really only about 28.5-29" tall.
    I ran 245/75/16s on my 97 that were a true 30.5" tall and they rub just a little.



    As mentioned I would drill out the bottom stud and put a bolt in there.
    As far as the top bolts go that is pretty common. I have only broke one and I didn't feel like jacking with it from underneath. Rough Country does offer some flag nuts on a Y shaped bracket to put up there if you can get the old nuts off. I went at it from above by removing the rear carpet (at least enough to get to the area above the shock mount), cut 3 sides of a hole to make a flap, pulled it back to access the upper nuts, drilled out the broke bolt and replaced it with a regular nut/bolt. Pound the flap back down and reinstall carpet. Nobody will ever know.
     
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  20. Nov 14, 2018 at 11:50 AM
    #20
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Those studs will press out easily and you can take a large punch and big hammer to get them out too. Not too hard that way. I've never tried to drill one out.
     

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