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First time jeep owner, have some questions.

Discussion in 'Cherokee' started by Art, Sep 21, 2018.

  1. Nov 16, 2018 at 6:47 PM
    #21
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    It seems to come on around 1700-1800 RPMs. Coming from driving Rangers which like to shift around 3K, this seems very early to me. A member of another forum recommended shifting around 2K in the jeep?
     
  2. Nov 16, 2018 at 6:53 PM
    #22
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    So I found these:
    https://www.amazon.com/Rear-Bar-Fla...1-spons&keywords=jeep+cherokee+flag+nut&psc=1
    They came today. Says to just put the air hammer on them nutserts to pop "em out and stick the flag nut in through the access hole in the back. I could've made something like this, which I was contemplating doing, but for $10 a side I figured what the hell. I'm dealing with it in the morning so I'll let you guys know how well they work.
     
  3. Nov 16, 2018 at 7:33 PM
    #23
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I did spray some PB down in there overnight. Twice now. Someone else suggested to spray some carb cleaner down in there?

    I work in a machine shop, it would take me a fraction of the time to drill and tap the cover there than it takes me to scrape the cover and re-RTV once. I'm wondering if anybody's done it though, what plug to use, where to put the drain hole, that kind of stuff. Someone on this thread said I could buy covers with drain plugs, sounds like that might be the way to go.

    I replaced the front one. Apparently I need to replace the other one. Thanks a million, I had no clue.
    Does that mean I can be confident that the electric fan is probably coming on despite the fact that the gauge doesn't work?

    Alright, good to know. What about the condenser?

    The clutch does seem some what short. Being new to the Jeep I'm not certain if it's just that short or if it's wearing out.
    In the rebuild did you do anything to the trans or was it the clutch work and fluid that seemed to cure it?

    So what exactly is shift on the fly? I can toss it into 4H whenever? That's a lot different than what I'm used to. I appear to have 2H, 4H, N, and 4L. Sounds like that must be the NP231. What do you mean by "not meant to be used on pavement"? I pretty much only engage 4WD in the snow.

    235's would be convenient as I've got a pile of them out back.

    I grabbed a 5/8ths bolt from work, fits the shock perfectly. Thinking about putting it in backwards so the smooth part of the shaft is in the shock bushing instead of the threads.
    I'm not a huge fan of cutting holes, man. Hopefully these flag nut things work out.
     
  4. Nov 16, 2018 at 7:39 PM
    #24
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    If at all possible I'd like to get the stock gauge working again. Short of that, auxiliary gauge is the backup plan.
    I've been looking and haven't found any diff covers with drain plugs, or anything about anybody putting them in.
     
  5. Nov 16, 2018 at 7:40 PM
    #25
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    I'm thinkin' air hammer
     
  6. Nov 17, 2018 at 5:22 AM
    #26
    Awrench

    Awrench Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Nov 17, 2018
    Art [OP] and aggrex like this.
  7. Nov 17, 2018 at 5:52 PM
    #27
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    That is just optimal for MPG. I tend to shift closer to 2500 in the YJ ad 2000-2500 in my CJ. It's more about feel to me.
     
    JKBob 25 and Art [OP] like this.
  8. Nov 19, 2018 at 5:29 PM
    #28
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    So the brackets I ordered for $20 a pair worked out great. If I were to do it again I'd have them on hand before I got started, would've made it an easy job. The air hammer popped out the nutserts in about a minute.

    I replaced the temp sensor on the thermostat housing. I was unaware of a second sensor for the gauge.
    Funny story about that.
    I found the little sensor you described. It wasn't plugged in. Plugged it in, temp gauge came right back. Go figure. Jeep is operating right in the normal range.

    Heck yeah.

    Thank you.
     
    Prerunner1982 and aggrex like this.
  9. Nov 19, 2018 at 5:32 PM
    #29
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    That makes sense. I'd been shifting at around 2200-2300, lately I've tried shifting around 2K. The Jeep doesn't seem to mind either way/
     
    chris4x4 likes this.
  10. Nov 20, 2018 at 6:10 AM
    #30
    Prerunner1982

    Prerunner1982 Well-Known Member

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    Front: https://www.ballisticfabrication.com/products/dana-30-diff-cover-welded
    Rear: Dana 35 https://www.ebay.com/itm/XTREME-SANDBLAST-DIFFERENTIAL-COVER-DANA-35-DIFF-ODC-D35-XJS-/221637044912
    or Chrysler 8.25 https://www.nitro-gear.com/Chrysler-8-25-Nitro-X-treme-Diff-Cover-p/npcover-c8.25.htm

    I don't have any experience with these specifically just some that I found that had both fill and drain plugs.


    Unless the E-fan itself isn't working but you could test that by jumping it directly to the battery. When I purchased my 93 it didn't have an E-fan (someone had removed it) and I ran it that way for 7-8 years. Sitting in traffic in the middle of summer in Oklahoma it would get a little warm but luckily I never sat in traffic too long so it never overheated. I finally installed an E-fan but now it's cool enough that it hasn't kicked on yet.....so I am not sure it even works.

    Pull it or leave it. The radiator is easy to pull if needed, may not hurt to flush the cooling system anyways.

    What do you mean by short? I replaced my clutch (clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder) because I was doing an engine swap anyways, ultimately it needed it. I use to have to really push the pedal in almost to the floor to get it to shift which I was likely a failing master cylinder. Now I barely have to push it half way to engage the clutch. I didn't open the transmission at all, clutch and fluid. I also have a bushing and seal for the shifter that I need to install.


    Shift on the fly means you don't have to stop to shift into 4wd. I wouldn't do it at a high rate of speed but I have shifted into 4wd going 35-40mph when the road would go from clear to snow pack and have never had an issue. You are wise with your 4wd usage however I have seen people run 4wd on dry pavement thinking it's like all wheel drive and then wonder why the Jeep jerks when they are turning. The NP242 can be driven in 4wd fulltime on pavement but the NP231 does not have that option. I too have the NP231.
     
    Art [OP] likes this.
  11. Jul 19, 2019 at 2:19 PM
    #31
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    Hey guys, know I haven't posted in a while, but it's time for an update. Jeep has been treating me pretty well, always starts when I turn the key. Just over 251K on the clock now. Over the winter I had a couple minor problems. Had the headlight switch go bad on me, and blew some fuses in the process. I'll spare you the details of that one, though it makes for a pretty good story. Also had the passenger side U-Joint in the front axle shaft making a ton of noise on me, so I replaced that as well. Now that we're into summer I got some good news, which is that my electric cooling fan is indeed working. They weren't kidding, that thing is noisy. Still runs on the hot side in stop and go, but the old radiator has sprung a leak on me anyways, so here's hoping when I put a new one in it helps keep the truck cooler than the one that's in there now.

    Wednesday the power steering sprung a leak on me. I think the metal line at the fitting of the return line is the culprit, so I picked one up with a fitting on it for $7. I just hit the old one with some PB, and I'm about to head out there and replace it. I looked in my repair manual and it specifies "Mopar Power Steering Fluid". I checked every auto parts retailer around me, and none of them carry "Mopar Power Steering Fluid". I find this strange because I'm certain that there are many other jeeps out there, many of which might even have hydraulic power steering. I was told by Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone, O'Reilly's, Parts City, and even Napa and Mazza's, that when they looked up the vehicle it just called for regular power steering fluid. When I googled it, I found many people saying that only the specified "Mopar Power Steering Fluid" should be used. I didn't bother to call the dealer, because I know what they'll say. I knew the forums would be the place to get a real answer, so what's the truth?

    As always, any and all feedback is greatly appreciated, and thanks in advance.

    Art
     
  12. Jul 19, 2019 at 4:05 PM
    #32
    aggrex

    aggrex Well-Known Member

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    @Art ....I would just buy some Prestone PS fluid. PS fluid needs regular maintenance too.
     
    Art [OP] likes this.
  13. Jul 20, 2019 at 8:18 AM
    #33
    Art

    Art [OP] Member

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    So, apparently I decided that I was having so much fun that I wanted to replace my high pressure line and the reservoir while I was at it. One question though, how do I tension the serpentine belt? Repair manual says to use a "belt tension gauge". Called around, and nobody carries a "belt tension gauge". I find this strange, because I assume that there may be other vehicles out there, many of which may even have a serpentine belt that needs to be tensioned correctly. What do you guys do?

    EDIT: Let it be known that I did order the Gates belt tension tool, but it won't be here until Tuesday. I was hoping to drive my truck today.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2019
  14. Jan 1, 2020 at 6:54 AM
    #34
    cpttuna

    cpttuna Member

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    ss exhaust-viper coil
    On your question of which cap and rotor. There is a 4 cylinder engine and the 4.0 6 cylinder. Make sure you are getting parts for the 6 cylinder . the oil pressure dropping when hot can be a significant problem. You need to get it checked with a mechanical gage. I believe you want at least 13 psi at hot idle.The rear shock bolts hopefully you can knock out with a punch. It is a common problem. Then using wire wrapped around new bolts, you fish new ones down through the hole. I think it's 5/16 X1&1/4 inch bolts you need. I would get grade 8 bolts. I would replace the temp sensor. If there are not adequate records to indicate when things were worked on or replaced, I would put new on. (like replace hoses, change fluids, plugs, cap and rotor etc.)
     
    JKBob 25 and aggrex like this.
  15. Jan 1, 2020 at 7:16 AM
    #35
    cpttuna

    cpttuna Member

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    Hello,I'm new to this forum but not new to Jeeps. Hope you like the picture. I have 2 blue 01 Xj's. The one without the roof rack has the police package. Both have the viper coil switch. I have a silver 00 and a green 98. All except the 01 with the roof rack have the 2" budget boost. All run BF Goodrich 235/75R-15 tires.

    042 (2).jpg
     
  16. Jan 3, 2020 at 5:30 AM
    #36
    Prerunner1982

    Prerunner1982 Well-Known Member

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    Hey Cpttuna, thought that user name looked familiar from the old XJtalk days.
     
  17. Jan 7, 2020 at 9:01 PM
    #37
    cpttuna

    cpttuna Member

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    you are correct
     
  18. Jan 7, 2020 at 9:04 PM
    #38
    cpttuna

    cpttuna Member

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    If you have problems with the tension on the Gates belt, Try a Contiential belt. My wife's XJ does not like Gates belts, (plain and simple)
     

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