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Installing a remanufactured engine in my Wrangler need advice

Discussion in 'Wrangler TJ (1996-2006)' started by CoTJ, Mar 15, 2017.

  1. Mar 15, 2017 at 2:21 PM
    #1
    CoTJ

    CoTJ [OP] Member

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    Hello,

    I am in the process of shopping for a Reman for my 98 TJ. The Jeep has been good to me, the body and frame are still solid and the tub is rust free. Because those awesome employees at my local Napa selling me the wrong stat this past winter. Didn't realize until I had the housing apart and the gasket was toasted. Made the wrong choice thinking I could slap it back together and make it back to Napa. Long story short, cracked the head and blew out a valve. Hey if I am going to do it I am going to do it right. I am going to be dropping a reman in in the next few weeks. My question is can I use the ECM from the old engine or do I need to replace the ECM?

    I am planning on throwing in a new clutch while I have the engine off and thinking about new injectors. The other "bolt ons" Water pump, Alternator, Starter are all fairly new. If anyone has any other suggestions on what else I should replace to save headaches later would be appreciated.
     
    chris4x4 likes this.
  2. May 4, 2017 at 5:27 PM
    #2
    o4petesake

    o4petesake Member

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    You must have too much money......replace everything then ship me all your old parts! :)
     
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  3. May 4, 2017 at 6:29 PM
    #3
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    I don't see why you couldn't use the existing ECM, unless its malfunctioning.
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  4. May 4, 2017 at 7:14 PM
    #4
    CoTJ

    CoTJ [OP] Member

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    Its only a 2.5 reman for 1800 plus core with a 3 yr warranty. Came with the install kit dist, rotor, wires, plugs, hoses, water pump, oil pump, and gaskets. Right now it is kicking my ass. Trying to avoid dropping the trans. However it is making life miserable right now. Can't get the dam engine to accept the shaft.
     
  5. May 4, 2017 at 7:23 PM
    #5
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Houston
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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    What a prude!
     
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  6. May 4, 2017 at 7:24 PM
    #6
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    The engine I mean.
     
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  7. May 4, 2017 at 8:09 PM
    #7
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    Hey Peter....be nice. Lol.
     
  8. May 6, 2017 at 3:52 PM
    #8
    CoTJ

    CoTJ [OP] Member

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    So Peter I assume you're referring that I opted to go with a 2.5 and not the 4 conversion. Well a few reasons. First being I have never swaped out an engine before keep it simple stupid. Secondly I don't drag anything with it, I don't do anything extreme off road with it, I barely ever drive it on the highway no need really. Don't do any climbing with it. I am also not someone that needs the lift kit and big tires to feel cool. I just enjoy driving a Wrangler if it were any other vehicle I would have just gotten rid of it. Didn't have the money to buy a new one or new used one. Spent 2500 Got the engine, new rubber and a new soft top. I thought I did alright. This major issue I am having is getting the engine to marry to the trans.
     
  9. May 6, 2017 at 4:08 PM
    #9
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Houston
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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    If you force them they may get a divorce! No I was referring to your statement of, "Can't get the dam engine to accept the shaft." Your engine has her knees crossed, being difficult accepting the shaft. You know "prude" According to dictionary.com the definition of prude is: "
    a person who affects or shows an excessively modest, prim, or proper attitude, esp regarding sex". I'm always so serious on here just thought I'd poke a little fun.
     
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  10. May 6, 2017 at 4:10 PM
    #10
    CoTJ

    CoTJ [OP] Member

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    Yea It is defiantly acting like my ex did the last year we were married. Even used lube as directed. It would help if I could see between her legs so I could get the ribs on the shaft to fit in the hole properly
     
  11. May 6, 2017 at 4:12 PM
    #11
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Did you get your motor stabbed? You have to get the engine and tranny in roughly the same alignment. Sometimes if you can get just the tip of a side bolt in it will help you line up the other side and then bam it slips right in. Do you have an automatic or standard.
     
  12. May 6, 2017 at 4:18 PM
    #12
    CoTJ

    CoTJ [OP] Member

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    5 speed. I had it close, bolts on either side but it seemed it shoud have just slid in so I didn't force it with the bolts. I really don't want to drop the trans, but I'm startin to think its gonna be the only way.
     
  13. May 6, 2017 at 4:18 PM
    #13
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    That answers my question. You said ribs. I have never stabbed a standard. The only 3 times I've pulled a motor with a stick I also replaced the tranny, but it can be difficult from the bottom side too. only the nipple goes into the block. the ribs fit into the clutch. That nipple can be difficult. It has to be perfectly aligned. did you insert the brass bushing into your block?
     
  14. May 6, 2017 at 4:20 PM
    #14
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I know they say you shouldnt pull it together with the bolts, but I've never been able to pull that last half inch without using the bolts myself.
     
  15. May 6, 2017 at 4:22 PM
    #15
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    The last half inch for me i get all the bolts in and tighten them each alternating each bolt The problem is if your not on right you can crack your bell housing.
     
  16. May 6, 2017 at 4:24 PM
    #16
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    That is a really good price for a reman motor. I would have expected $3k.
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  17. May 6, 2017 at 4:34 PM
    #17
    CoTJ

    CoTJ [OP] Member

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    Once I get the thing on there and on the mounting brackets. Should take like 15 minutes (not really I know) to put everything else on. The thing is so simple. Installed the old flywheel not much glazing and what there was I scuffed off. Installed the new pilot bearing. The block was shipped ready to accept the flywheel. Bushing was installed when it arrived.

    1800 for the block+core deposit. Bought the install kit too. Gaskets, oil and water pump, plugs, wires, rotor and cap.
     
  18. May 6, 2017 at 7:17 PM
    #18
    CoTJ

    CoTJ [OP] Member

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    IT'S IN !!!!!! Fought me the whole way but it's in.
     
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  19. May 6, 2017 at 7:51 PM
    #19
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    :worthless:
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  20. May 6, 2017 at 7:53 PM
    #20
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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