1. Welcome to Jeeps.net!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Jeep discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Jeep owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Jk 2 door 3-3.5" lift tire combo

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by RUSTIC T, Nov 17, 2016.

  1. Nov 17, 2016 at 1:25 PM
    #1
    RUSTIC T

    RUSTIC T [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2016
    Member:
    #512
    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2011 Wrangler sport
    Stock
    think I'm going to go with a 3 to 3.5 inch lift on my '11 jk. I don't like the "stuffed in there" look with tires, thinking 33s will give me the gap I'm looking for between top of tire and fender. Any thoughts? Maybe photos of similar setups?
     
  2. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:17 PM
    #2
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,875
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    With a 3.5 inch lift you can easily get 37s. So I think 35s would look good. I have a 2008 JKU 4 in.. Teraflex short arm lift with 37s that I just replaced with 40s, but I had to get genright high line fenders to clear the 40s. Mine is more for rock crawling purpose than for looks, but it does look good. I'll post a pic when I get home with the 37s.
     
  3. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:36 PM
    #3
    RUSTIC T

    RUSTIC T [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2016
    Member:
    #512
    Messages:
    2
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2011 Wrangler sport
    Stock
    I don't want to get into changing gears, this jk is my dd, aren't 35s pushing it ?
     
  4. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:38 PM
    #4
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,875
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
  5. Nov 17, 2016 at 7:50 PM
    #5
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2016
    Member:
    #317
    Messages:
    1,875
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Houston
    Vehicle:
    1979 Jeep CJ7, 258, TH350, NP208
    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I ran the stock 373 gears. It lacked power taking off but did well enough on the trail. Now with 40s I run 538s. If you have a standard you should have stock 410 gears. Some will say re-gear others will say it isn't necessary but it will help regain your fuel mileage and on the trail and pickup some lost power due to the bigger tires. Don't forget to post pics of your build on the build thread.
     
    chris4x4 likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top