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Removing body bolts without hacking up the tub?

Discussion in 'Wrangler YJ (1986-1995)' started by GUARDDOGG, Mar 2, 2017.

  1. Mar 2, 2017 at 3:22 PM
    #1
    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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    Hello,
    I just bought my first Jeep last month & I have dove in head first on this project. I'm not brand new to rebuilding cars & motorcycles (been a while though)...but have never done a full frame off rebuild like I am with this 1994 jeep YJ.
    I'm wondering if someone has a write up on removing the body bolts without completely hacking up the tub.

    I been video documenting the progress of the project on YouTube & if any jeepers have any advise I would be very grateful. Check it out:

    https://youtu.be/oFu2NHGNQwc

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  2. Mar 3, 2017 at 11:12 AM
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    Bob

    Bob Well-Known Member Moderator

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    Welcome! Great vid
     
  3. Mar 3, 2017 at 8:17 PM
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    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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  4. Mar 6, 2017 at 7:08 AM
    #4
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    The nuts are welded in place and the bolts should come right out.
     
  5. Apr 23, 2017 at 7:51 AM
    #5
    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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    Ya, they came right out. With the assistance from a cutting wheel and reciprocating saw but I can get the tub off the old frame now.
     
  6. Apr 23, 2017 at 10:30 AM
    #6
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Do I understand correctly that you have cut off ll the bolts? and Now you want to lift the tub off the old frame. Several ways. 1. Build an A frame out of 4x4 posts and set it over the jeep attach a chain lift to the a frame. This can also be made out of metal if you can weld. 2. You can purchase a similar setup from Harbor Freight Tools for about $700. 3. If you have access to a forklift? 4. Grab about 5 more friends and a few cases of beer. Dont forget to remove the fenders first.
     
  7. Apr 23, 2017 at 11:59 AM
    #7
    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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    Oh I have a hoist to lift it off the frame, but thanks. I have gotten a lot further along sines this thread. I can't upload a pic because I use an iPhone as my personal computer but here's a link to my last video maybe you can give me some advise because this is my first Jeep.

    https://youtu.be/Nj0kYoG7kz0
     
  8. Apr 23, 2017 at 2:16 PM
    #8
    dougbbbb

    dougbbbb Well-Known Member

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    Hello

    It's easy to upload a pic from an I phone. Go to bottom of where it says upload a file and click that. It will bring up a box that says choose file click that. Then click photo library then click camera roll. Choose the pic u want and it will upload it into the thread.

    Doug
     
  9. Apr 23, 2017 at 2:59 PM
    #9
    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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    Cool! Thanks!
     
  10. Apr 23, 2017 at 3:00 PM
    #10
    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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  11. Apr 23, 2017 at 7:19 PM
    #11
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Dang! Exactly what I would do.
     
  12. Apr 23, 2017 at 7:31 PM
    #12
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Great video. With 4.5 in of lift you should get new drive shafts. You will also get some pretty bad driveline vibrations because of that rear slip yoke. While you have it out I would install a SYE kit. This should eliminate most if not all of your vibration. Tom woods will tell you you would need a double cardan shaft. If you go that route you'll need at least a 6* wedge on the rear spring pack to point your pinion up. I love a good project.
     
  13. Apr 23, 2017 at 8:08 PM
    #13
    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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    I have the rear dif pack and it's pointed up, those are RC springs. RC said I didn't need the SYE unless I went to 6".
    I will be rebuilding the transfer case when I get the tub off the old frame & get in there.
    And as far as the drive shafts I cleaned them up, painted & replaced the u joints.
     
  14. Apr 23, 2017 at 8:31 PM
    #14
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    I know people who complained about vibration on a 3 in lift. Most install a Tcase drop which I don't like because it cocks the engine back even further, but it works. Sounds like you may think like I do. I like to make the fewest changes possible at a time in order to see the differences in how your jeep drives. I enjoy working on my Jeep so dropping the Tcase and shafts again is like spending the day at a yoga class for me (not that I've ever been).

    I really like that blue. Hope you keep it.
     
  15. Apr 24, 2017 at 2:08 PM
    #15
    GUARDDOGG

    GUARDDOGG [OP] Member

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    Thx, ya I like to do the small changes for the same reasons. But when I started dissembling I also started ordering parts and one was the RC premium 4.5" lift kit that came with a lot of what needed replaced anyway along with the TC drop down. I pretty much am replacing everything or rebuilding each thing before it goes into this new frame that you see here. Just got it into a rolling chassis. Now I have a little welding to do before I can remove the tub from the old frame.
    IMG_8483.jpg IMG_8482.jpg
     
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