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Sputtering under load

Discussion in 'Other Jeep Vehicles' started by 525JoeyYJ, Jun 23, 2017.

  1. Jun 23, 2017 at 7:23 PM
    #1
    525JoeyYJ

    525JoeyYJ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    so I just picked up another Comanche! It's a 1987 with the TBI 2.5l... So it started off with replacing fuel pump because it died after running a few minutes, new idle speed motor, because of a high idle. All going smoothly! New light sockets, I think I had a total of one side marker light and brake lights, that's it. Again, working great! Been driving it the last couple of days. Haven't had any lights working on my Gauge Cluster, but gauges work. Dummy lights working too. Blower not working... Those aren't my main priorities right now though. But today on the way home from work... It started to lose power every now and then, I stopped at a stop sign, then started up the hill, couldn't get out of 2nd gear without sputtering, so I was almost home, just had to make it up this hill then down a straight stretch and I could coast the rest of the way if I had to, had no problem idling nicely, over the span of a minute or two up the hill it started to get worse, got to the straight stretch, bucking forward at this point, because it was sputtering so bad, had to keep on and off with the gas so it didn't stall. Then finally down to 1st, and couldn't gain ground anymore. Still idling beautiful, but couldn't put it under even a slight load. As I came to a stop pulled over on the side of the road, shut it off, tried to start it again, started as easily as always, but same issue when trying to move. Sat for about 4-5 minutes with it off, tried starting it again. Started up the very same, this time had no trouble getting all the way up to speed, through all 5 gears, and got home. I hope to resolve this issue soon, any help would be really appreciated, until then, back to my trusty 4.0 Cherokee!
     
  2. Jun 23, 2017 at 7:32 PM
    #2
    chris4x4

    chris4x4 With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine Moderator

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    Man.....maybe a vacuum line?
     
    JKBob 25 and OFFGRID like this.
  3. Jun 23, 2017 at 7:35 PM
    #3
    525JoeyYJ

    525JoeyYJ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, good thought, it crossed my mind, but didn't think too much about it, I'll check the lines tomorrow. Thanks for your input.
     
  4. Jun 23, 2017 at 8:34 PM
    #4
    JKBob 25

    JKBob 25 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry. Can't help you with the issues you posted. BUT. I had a 2000 Cherokee for 14 years. And yes. I agree. I knew every morning when I turned the key. I was making it to work. Lol. Just my 2 cents. Awesome Plan B in my book.

    Hope you figure out what your issues are. Im sure there's some one here that might be able to help. Good luck.
     
  5. Jun 24, 2017 at 5:57 AM
    #5
    525JoeyYJ

    525JoeyYJ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Oh yes, my 1989 4.0 has never let me down! Within the last month it's made a 14 hour round trip without hesitation, towed my motorcycle back from New Hampshire, and towed a 4.0 Comanche back from 2 hours away!
     
  6. Jun 24, 2017 at 9:47 AM
    #6
    525JoeyYJ

    525JoeyYJ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Okay, so I found the o2 sensor wasn't hooked up. I hooked it up. But don't want to get a few miles down the road and have this happen again... Does that seem like it could be the reason for my issue anyone?
     
  7. Jun 24, 2017 at 10:04 AM
    #7
    525JoeyYJ

    525JoeyYJ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Negative, just drove it around, all was good until like 15 minutes into driving. Same issue.
     
  8. Jun 24, 2017 at 12:28 PM
    #8
    OFFGRID

    OFFGRID Well-Known Member

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    Howell fuel injection, header, HEI distributor, TH350, NP208, SOA lift with YJ springs in the front & GW springs in the Rear. AMC20 with G2 1 piece chromos trussed, Dana 30 with G2 chromos and 760x ujoints and MM Stainless Hubs, Geared 4.56. Tom Woods shafts, Metal cloaks, Caged, 37" Toyo MTs.
    Just for my thoughts. You drive around for 15 minutes and it drives fine. Then it starts acting up. Sounds like to me you have a bad sensor. You drive around in closed loop (no ecm input) until you reach operating temp then at normal operating temp the ecm takes over reading input from the sensors. If a sensor is bad the jeep runs bad if at all. The 87 is it a throttle body injection? Or individual port injection? Do you still have a distributor or are there coil packs (I'm not positive of the years and changes) check the O2 and temp sensors first. If you have them, then check the cam and crank sensors. Are you getting a check engine light, any codes? Autozone will check for free.
     
    JKBob 25 likes this.
  9. Jun 24, 2017 at 12:41 PM
    #9
    SmittyJeeper

    SmittyJeeper Well-Known Member

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    Offgrid is right it sounds like a sensor. With that being said check your distributor to see if its loose. Sounds like a timing problem and the two biggest offenders on them older ones is coolant temp sensor and o2 sensor. When it's having the problem try unplugging them one at a time and see if the problem clears up.
     
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  10. Jun 24, 2017 at 4:18 PM
    #10
    525JoeyYJ

    525JoeyYJ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the replies, TBI with distributor. No obd during those years, so no codes. The coolant sensor is the one in the back on the side of the engine by the valve cover with the single prong that the one wire sticks onto, correct?
     
  11. Jun 24, 2017 at 4:32 PM
    #11
    SmittyJeeper

    SmittyJeeper Well-Known Member

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    No the single wire sensor at the back on the head is the temp sensor for the gauge. The computer temp sensor should be on the side of the block under the intake/exhaust manifolds or on the intake manifold based on year. Either way it will be a two wire.
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2017
    JKBob 25 and OFFGRID like this.
  12. Jun 24, 2017 at 7:38 PM
    #12
    525JoeyYJ

    525JoeyYJ [OP] Well-Known Member

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    You mean this. Correct?

    IMG_4034.jpg
     
  13. Jun 25, 2017 at 2:04 AM
    #13
    SmittyJeeper

    SmittyJeeper Well-Known Member

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    Yep, that is the computer temp sensor.
     
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